Constellation Performance Centaur II 500 power amplifier | 220v Contactor Relay

If you’re invested in the Alexa ecosystem, the Amazon Smart Plug is super reliable, dead simple to set up, and works with most electrical products you would find in the home. Be sure to heed the warnings found in the in-box manual!

Actually most power panels I have worked on alternate phases as you go down the opposite rows, not one phase on each side, 240 breakers take up 2 breaker spaces on one side of the panel using alternate legs.

Speaking of mains power and gas pipes, I live in a 100-year-old house which has some rather dubious wiring (though, perhaps not as bad as the knob-and-tube it started with). The kitchen’s gas range had been in place since puke green was the preferred color, and its power cord (for the clock & timer) was, unbeknownst to me, seriously frayed. The range’s gas inlet was connected to the shutoff valve on the wall with one of those scary-looking flexible tubes (not a modern, yellow insulated one, but rather bare metal). Well, one day the range got pushed back for cleaning, and the exposed hot lead in its power cord brushed that gas line. ZAP!, followed by a roaring jet of flame from the large hole now in the flimsy gas line. I couldn’t get close enough to the shutoff valve to use it, so I had the frantically seek out a big wrench and shut off the gas where it enters the house in the basement. By then the wall behind the range was well and truly aflame (way too big for my wimpy little fire extinguisher to deal with), so I threw pans of water on the fire. I figured the breaker for the outlet the range was plugged into had already tripped, but it later turned out that the contact had been too brief for that and I was throwing water on a live electrical circuit–no harm came of that, fortunately.

Called the MPSMv2, the core of the project is the ESP8266 module. The dev board itself can support anything with GPIO pins, whether it’s an Arudino, Raspberry Pi, or anything else with those features. Flashing the NodeMCU firmware is pretty much all that needs to be done in order to get the device up and running, and once you get the device connected to your WiFi you’ll be able to control whatever appliances you want.

However, DC distribution at the municipality level and smaller will be a nightmare to make work. Pretty much *everything* needs to be replaced, and for what purpose? It doesn’t really solve any significant problems and raises a host of others.

Your writing is appreciated. It’s good to learn something more than just the U.S. english terminology for things. Also makes for a better laugh (sometimes) at some of the anecdotes written in the comments that one reads in so many places online.

It’s a Prius for private buyers. It’s got one of the best drivetrains and most sophisticated chassis in the class, looks ok inside and out, no doubt usual exemplary quality and reliability.

I recall a battery add from the 70’s or 80’s that displayed the power of a couple of 1.5V cells powering an electromagnet that could lift a car.

Probably best to derate to 1.5x or 2x. But even then, are the “solder” conductors inside really going to be any different? Looking at then they appear to crate a conductor way bigger than 25A requires.

VAC says: “The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other.” Of course they are not. *by definition* if they were in phase there would be no voltage difference between them. The two 120V legs are 180 degrees different from each other, so the difference between them is 240V. Which is (of course) the supply voltage.

And keep in mind that EVSEs are a continuous duty device. As such, you need to derate them from the circuit’s rating by 20%. So you should only use 12A on a 15A rated circuit. And you should only do that if you’re confident that there’s nothing else pulling significant current on EITHER circuit besides your EVSE.

I don’t use my infrared camera as a quantitative tool; I use it as a qualitative tool. Yeah, I know, more blowhard words. Put simply, I’m not too concerned with the exact temperatures that are displayed on my infrared camera. As a home inspector, what I’m concerned with and what I dig into are the meanings behind unexpected temperature differences, aka anomalies.