Could A Fire Have Caused The Loss Of MH370? | 220v Contactor Relay

I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.

Driving the Niro PHEV is a better experience than the standard Niro — when I drove that hybrid, there were a few stumbles with the dual-clutch transmission when cold. It seems the larger, more powerful battery and motor combo smooth out the rough edges of this transmission. The greater electric torque makes getting off the line brisk, almost fun.

Nichrome expands a lot when it’s heated which is why it’s often in spirals or loops. Copper also expands significantly when it heats so what ‘relief’ could there be for this expansion – and at a high enough temperature the copper traces would de-laminate from the FR4.

Virtually every home in North America is wired with 240V (NOT 220V!) split phase, providing 120V to ordinary receptacles, and 240V (NOT 220V) to larger appliances. Most kitchens are wired with 240V split phase to the (split) receptacles at the countertop, providing a very convenient 240V source if you just wire up the appropriate adapter to take the hots from each phase.

The place to start when talking about mains-voltage equipment is your bench. We realise you’ll probably be working at your kitchen table or wherever you happen to be, but it’s best to start an article like this with a baseline, of what you really should have when doing this stuff. There are three things we’d consider essential in the mains power system on a mains-voltage bench. An isolation transformer to power the item you are working on if it needs a mains supply, a residual current circuit breaker for the rest of your mains supplies, and an emergency isolation switch for all bench power.

Your advice / admonition overlooks the reasonable likelihood that the part wasn’t *really* rated for what it *claimed* to be rated for, nor was it constructed in a manner to keep it safe in the event of an actual failure– as in the article’s example. Such that even if he were a licensed and well-experienced “electrician” (or anything else), it STILL would (could) have failed and caused the same problem. So what you’re saying IS good advice in a general way, but only partially relevant to the actual incident from the article, IMO of course!

Then there’s the time i went to take apart a computer PSU for the fan, without realising some how I’d left it plugged in (I’d dismantled the entire PC around it, yet left the power lead in?!)

This is the sort of topic where it wouldn’t be a great idea to be dismissive of textbooks and/or formal instruction. Often local power line crews will put on a safety demonstration at hamfests. No doubt they would do the same for the various builder/hacker/maker spaces

The time-multiplexed full-color RGB pixel technology generally worked well to deliver very high resolution with no gaps at all between the pixels. The only place I was aware of the EVF pixels were in diagonal strokes of letters on the various VF info readouts, or on the electronic level display, when the indicator lines were tilted. I never saw pixel jaggies when looking at the subjects I was shooting, even in the case of sharp high-contrast edges.

Another potential issue of the translucent mirror design is that with an extra optical surface between the lens and the imager, flare could be increased, and image quality degraded, and indeed we’ve seen some evidence of this in predominantly dark shots containing bright point light sources, as described elsewhere in this review. There’s also another surface for dust to adhere to, and while this would be too far from the image sensor to appear as distinct specks, it could further contribute to issues with flare and reduced contrast. While manual sensor cleaning will now be a familiar process for photographers used to shooting with a digital SLR, cleaning the pellicle mirror is a total unknown. The Sony A33 provides a cleaning mode allowing the sensor to be accessed, and the pellicle mirror itself can be manually raised to facilitate this, but Sony’s documentation provides no advice on cleaning the pellicle mirror itself, simply noting that the surface of the mirror shouldn’t be touched.

A REAL Fotek is a good brand ….. however some dishonest shops in China are turning out fakes by the thousands ,,,,, I got burnt by a fake Fotek 25A DC SSR for a printer a couple of years ago and the 2nd or 3rd time I used it the MOSFET went up in smoke although nowhere near this spectacularly …. I ended up replacing it wtih a 100A Fotek that I could ascertain was genuine and it’s been working ever since

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