Could A Fire Have Caused The Loss Of MH370? | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

I couldn’t even find a de-rating chart or graph online for this relay. Also, many SSRs (and other devices) do not recommend the “bottom” orientation for heat sinks.

BTW, one can’t just put in a big red button and call it Emergency Isolation Switch. At least in an industrial setting a Emergency Stop follows strict guidelines which include possible damage to the machine from using it. There are rules and regulations for how these are wired, where they are placed, etc. One doesn’t just run mains power through it. Typically these are low voltage switches that cut power to coils of high current contactors and relays.

My 2 stage 23 x 24″ CASE snowblower I home-made converted to a 3 hp extension cord electric (240 on the Tesla outlet – peaks at 35 amperes and 7 1/2 hp). I was worried that I had underpowered it but last March when all the gas blowers on the street were stalling on heavy water laden snow, mine just kept barreling down the sidewalk.

I’m surprised no one mentioned how Mattias Wandel mounted the SSR on a piece of sheet metal (pretending it will be a heat sink), then mounted it on a water _heater_. I know the heater is insulated so it really shouldn’t be radiating any heat, but wouldn’t it have made more sense to mount the SSR on the cold water inlet pipe? You want to heat the water anyway… When I saw his first video showing off the project I said to myself that’s not going to end well. I’m surprised it lasted this long.

Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.

I suppose a more flexible grid, with more cheap gas plants, which can fire up quickly, made this possible, as well as making the grid itself smarter. There was a rush to build gas power plants a while ago, since of course gas isn’t going to run out any time soon or anything.

Similarly in the Senate, Republicans’ slim 51-49 majority means that Flake’s defection could be enough to help sink a nomination, or at the very least trigger a tie-breaker. In the case of Farr, Democrats have mounted an aggressive push to block his nomination. Given Flake’s current stance, if they can convince just one more Republican to switch over, they could successfully take it down.

This thing is going to get really unhappy when you plug your 15 amp motor into it and it’s embedded in your wall outlet.

[Ron] does a nice job of explaining some basic concepts like using opto-isolators. However, the real value to the video is the easy way to interface to the existing controller. A little configuration into Home Automation rounds out the project.

Adjusting settings via the Fn menu is generally a good experience. A very nice touch is that you can use the up/down/left/right directions of the 4-way controller to move the cursor between Fn menu items, and then use the front control dial to adjust the settings. This is nice because it lets you quickly make a number of Fn settings changes in succession, without having to drop down a menu level for each, or being forced out of the Fn menu between choices. The few exceptions to this are those items with a second level of control, such as multi-shot ISO or the tweak adjustments for white balance settings. In those cases, you need to explicitly select the menu item via the OK button, and then use the left/right keys to make the needed adjustment. The only exit at that point is to hit the OK button again, which unfortunately drops you out of the Fn menu entirely.

Might be safer your way, since you’re transforming down, then back up again. Using a microwave oven transformer means horribly high voltages in the middle of the thing, and should, by chance, some insulation fail, or a bit of an arc, or whatever…

Aluminum wire has a lower ampacity than the same gauge copper wire, meaning aluminum must be larger to accomplish the same ampacity job as copper wire. The rule-of-thumb sizes rely on the lowest allowable temperature rating of the wire; in some cases, the circuit may have a higher ampacity if the insulation on the wire and the connection endpoints are all rated at 75°C (167°F) or 90°C (194°F).