can’t be said too many times: foteks are known to roll over, fart and let the smoke out. doesn’t hurt to overspec by 3-5. not when playing with fire.
I suppose a more flexible grid, with more cheap gas plants, which can fire up quickly, made this possible, as well as making the grid itself smarter. There was a rush to build gas power plants a while ago, since of course gas isn’t going to run out any time soon or anything.
By the way, the plug-in Kia Niro appears very similar to the now-discontinued plug-in Ford C-Max. I wish Kia better success with their product offering than Ford had with theirs.
TRIACs have very low junction voltage / resistance especially when compared to the load they are driving. When they are overloaded they heat causing the the junction voltage to increase rapidly causing exponentially more power to be dissipated by the TRIAC instead of the load. This whole process seems to take about a nanosecond and ends with a small amount of the plastic casing still attached to the legs.
Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)
It’s not easy to get that many amp-turns out of such a feeble source. You can wind arbitrarily many turns in a coil and create ridiculous magnetic fields, but the series resistance grows to the point that adding more turns decreases the current and diminishes the field.
You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.
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Now we’re getting into more serious stuff. The contactor is a relay that converts the low-voltage signal from the thermostat into a signal to switch on 220V power to the compressor and condenser. When these contactors fail, the A/C unit will go down. They are a cheap and easy to replace. Check the owner’s manual to locate the contactor and replacement model.
This doesn’t make any sense, why not use an extension cord with the 220 already in the house? A 6 or 8 gauge cord for 75 feet should be perfectly fine.
For the person who jumps up and says “coatings insulate the water from the trace”, well no it doesn’t, we are talking about AC voltages and water that has formed over a large trace (even insulated) forms a capacitor that will conduct AC even when you have a DC insulation. Even if it did you then still have the exposed solder pads.
Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.
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