Now we’re getting into more serious stuff. The contactor is a relay that converts the low-voltage signal from the thermostat into a signal to switch on 220V power to the compressor and condenser. When these contactors fail, the A/C unit will go down. They are a cheap and easy to replace. Check the owner’s manual to locate the contactor and replacement model.
The first was working with a bench buddy on a military SSB Shortwave amp. My bench buddy assured me he had powered the system down and unplugged everything necessary, and I trusted him. I reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plate voltage supply on the amp tube, and got hit by 26kv DC. Shouted and was teleported backwards about 3 feet, but no damage done (except a small melted bit on the end of the pliers).
Once got electrocuted from a computer monitor though, that a relative thoughfully gave us without a case. I was reaching underneath to adjust the brightness or something. Touched something live. The monitor was on the floor, with the 8-bit computer (a Spectrum). My hand touched the live PCB, jerked away, bounced off the floor, and back up to the PCB again. Eventually my sister switched it off at the socket. Bit stupid really, I wouldn’t let kids near something like that, but…
In the US, sharing neutrals between circuits is generally prohibited in the National Electrical Code, 200.4, which says, essentially, “Don’t share neutrals, unless we say somewhere else in the code that you can.” That bit was added in 2011, though other parts of the code cast a penumbra that seemed to say that sharing neutrals was verboten before 2011. In 2011, it became clearly prohibited.
You have right, a isolated SMPS is used. The Microchip solution presented above will not work properly because of the ESP Module power requirements.
A couple months back I ran across a note in the datasheet for an inexpensive but reputably sourced power MOSFET that said that, while the die itself was rated for 200A continuous/400A peak the package and its leads were only rated for 125A/250A. So I said to myself “I wonder what the mode of failure looks like?” And built up a circuit to drive it to failure in a controlled manner. It was fairly spectacular: 1) the thermal expansion rate of the die doesn’t match that of the package and once you exceed some wattage tension builds up and (at least in the case of my particular DUT) the chip package literally exploded sending shards of epoxy and/or ceramic flying far and wide. 2) with the die now exposed in several areas and the connection to the heatsink thoroughly hosed by the explosion of the package things devolved rapidly and the magic blue smoke escapes (which smells very bad, FYI, and takes a while to fully purge that smell from the workshop).
If the car achieved its minimum 44 mpg and used 3.1 gallons, that means 136 miles were done on gasoline and 117 were EV miles.
OK … back to the task at hand. Anyone care to comment on how a toaster oven is wired? How about a thermal blanket? None of these use a 12V or 24V switching power supply brick, so how do they do it???
https://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/
Yeah, I screwed up this one. I was looking for the ON State voltage drop, but they were giving the power, which I multiplied by the current giving the wrong value above.http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT137-600E.pdf this shows about 3-6W @ 5A. I was trying to compare both relay and triac at 5A, significantly below their rated max load. It looks like the affirmation still stands, the triac will dissipate more, but now the number is not even double.
This device – and any high-powered device that’s home-built – should be regularly inspected to insure that the wiring is not degrading due to heat caused by increased resistance. That’s why the chassis has a clear lid.
So if I am looking to make the magnet more powerful, other than supplying more current, could I wire the primary and secondary coils of the microwave transformer together in series to get more turns (being mindful to keep the direction the current flows the same in both coils)? My thoughts are that it would increase the resistance a bit from the added wire but that the magnet would have a lot more turns. Am I missing something or am I onto something? Thanks in advance!
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