Curious What $750 Gets You? Pics of the Guts of Nissan LEAF’s Charge Station | 220v Contactor Relay

You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.

I use mains power for my bed on both of my 3D printers. It’s controlled from RAMPs exactly the same as a 12v bed would be with the exception that the signal from the RAMPs board is used to trigger a solid state relay. I use a standard silicon heat mat: https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+heat+mat&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjawpmuoOPJAhVFtIMKHXC1AO0Q_AUICCgC&biw=960&bih=557

The camera can’t always perfectly compensate for how you move the camera during the panorama, nor for extreme perspective shifts, so you’ll sometimes see "stitch errors" in the assembled shots. The slight "stuttering" above left in a shot from the Sony A55 is typical of the mild errors that sometimes occur: Pretty unobtrusive, unless you really zoom in to pixel-peep. More dramatic errors like the crop from an A560 panorama seen above right were fairly rare in my experience. This is a great feature for dramatic vacation snapshots, but if you’re making panoramas professionally, you’ll still want to build them manually from separate shots.

In the waning days of Flake’s presence in the Senate, the Arizona lawmaker, who’s frequently clashed with Trump, now has dwindling opportunities to make his mark. Longtime observers of his tortured reluctance to back Republicans going in a direction he does not like will recall that such stands often end with Flake simply, well, flaking.

You’ll notice that I didn’t explain exactly how to correct this. I do this intentionally because I’m not going to do the work. This situation could be easily fixed by replacing the dimmer switch with a simple toggle switch, by installing a dimmer rated for a higher wattage, or by installing bulbs with a lower wattage. Any of those would be fine, but as the home inspector, I don’t design the repairs.

A properly wired, properly functioning dimmer switch can get hot to the touch. I’ve found that a 65-degree temperature rise is normal for a maxed-out dimmer. If the ambient temperature is 71 degrees and a dimmer switch is at 136 degrees, I’d be concerned, but I wouldn’t report the temperature as a problem. I would, however, take an extra minute or two to figure out how many watts the dimmer is rated for. I’d then make sure there wasn’t too much being controlled by the dimmer.

Turn off the power at the main box to the A/C unit and open the electrical access panel on the air conditioner. It is usually located where the electrical power comes into the unit. Check for rodent nests and wires that have been chewed or frayed.

I guess you missed my writing ignorant people doing stupid things People using a metal utensil to clear a jammed toaster isn’t unheard of but still there are no barriers to that. Perhaps there are bread toaster that use an enclosed heating element like many toaster ovens use, but my fairly new UL labeled toaster uses the same style of heating element hat been used for decades. That what you quoted was directed the the DIY individual more likely to come across something like this, not average John or Jane Doe.

Yeah, I screwed up this one. I was looking for the ON State voltage drop, but they were giving the power, which I multiplied by the current giving the wrong value above.http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT137-600E.pdf this shows about 3-6W @ 5A. I was trying to compare both relay and triac at 5A, significantly below their rated max load. It looks like the affirmation still stands, the triac will dissipate more, but now the number is not even double.

The problem is that the triac may dissipate more than 15W when using it at 10A, which requires a good heatsink and ventilation. That’s a lot of overkill if you just want to control a 6W LED lamp.

I suppose it’d be a case by case thing. But I wouldn’t want to give an insurance company another excuse not to pay out.

Looking at the datasheet for the Fotek SSR-25DA:https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/SSR40DA.pdf