Curious What $750 Gets You? Pics of the Guts of Nissan LEAF’s Charge Station | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Samsung is rolling out an update for its 2018 lineup of QLED TVs that enables FreeSync, which allows for smoother gaming without screen tearing. The company talked up its partnership with Microsoft’s Xbox division during its unveiling of this year’s sets, and this is yet another feature that embraces the capabilities of the Xbox One X.

We did go for an L2 charger in our case because we have 2 BEVs and charging them on 1 20 amp L1 circuit wouldn’t cut it. Generally my wife uses the L2 charger for her Leaf while I L1 charge the model 3 and only borrow her L2 connection if I have been too lazy to plug into L1 for a few days. But, if we just had the model 3 L1 alone would be fine. As for the “plugging an L1 charger into a corroded outlet safety risk” some other repliers mention. Well duh. If I plug an L2 charger into a corroded 14-30 or 14:50 outlet there is even more risk. If the 120V outlet is in poor shape $5 in parts at Home Depot can fix that. Any sustained draw electrical equipment can be a hazard if plugged into insufficient infrastructure.

This plate is too likely to touch the user. It’s sensible to have a certain fear of mains voltages, makes you pay attention when you’re working with it. The DC power suggested would come from the printer’s existing PSU, pay a little bit extra for a few more amps, the overall wattage isn’t high. Much less than I presume you’d use in industry. Thanks to power-hungry graphics cards, high-power PC PSUs are cheap.

A coworker at JPL got bit by an ion pump supply. On-site health unit recognized abnormal EKG, sent him to ER. ER doctor diagnosed a congenital abnormality unrelated to the incident. But he ended up with a date with a nurse, so he considered it a worthwhile exercise.

“To get 120 watts at 12 volts requires thick wires that can handle 10 amps, whereas at 120V, tiny 1A wires will do”.

I have never understood why North America stayed in their stupid 120V system, that uses very high currents over inferior aluminium wires, connected with lose screwcaps and fuses that may explode out of the wall. And it would be probably federal crime and against the code to use proper copper wires connected with good push lock blocks and DIN rail mounted fuses and contactors…

It’s an ultimatum that hits at Republicans’ narrow margins in the Senate (which will be wider when the new Congress starts in January).

Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)

It’s a great idea but a shame it isn’t laid out correctly, The traces on the low voltage side of the opto-couple are too close to the mains voltage and also the trace from resistor R8 to the opto is too close as well.

That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.

This Niro looks like a decent design with acceptable styling. I chose the Ford for its proven design and a good track record for reliability– plus about 40 extra HP, which is a well-kept secret.

The U.S. benchmarks are approaching the unofficial start to summer amid characteristically range-bound, and slightly sluggish, price action.