Does Tesla Make The Best Value EVSE For Non-Tesla Owners? | 19mm Momentary Push Button

The only people having trouble with L1 are those DOPES who haven’t read their owner’s manuals. There all EV manuals state that car charging is a heavy continuous load, and it requires high-quality receptacles that have been tested to make sure they are safe by someone competent.

One possibility (on contactors) is to have a split pole with a copper ring one one half. This is similar to a shaded pole motor. The current which is induced in the copper ring (shorted winding) is out of phase with the current in the main winding and smooths out the zero crossings. Another possibility, mostly used on valves, is to rely on the inertia of the core, here the dampening effect of the fluid also helps. The device is just not fast enough to follow the 100Hz (or 120Hz in some oversea countries) ripple.

I flashed Tasmota firmware onto the Sonoff, and configured GPIO2 as a counter, and I now have the whole setup reporting to Node Red, which switches the pumps on and off on schedule, or as desired. I’m quite chuffed with the result, although now I need to learn a lot more about how Node Red works!

Agreed. I don’t see us revisiting the war of the currents. Interties between independent grids make sense, but there’s a reason that AC won, and I don’t think time and advancing technology has significantly changed that.

The operation of the potential relay is based on the increase in back-electro-motive force (back-EMF) or a bucking voltage that is generated across the start winding as the motor increases in speed. The large metal mass of the motor’s rotor turning at high speeds with motor windings in close proximity has a voltage-generating effect.

To be exact: It’s the anode or acceleration voltage. Focus is usually some kV, but derived from a 100Meg voltage divider.

仲鑫达以“专业、 诚信、创新、合作、共赢”的经营理念、不断开发新产品、为客户提供优质服务、以最大限度追求客户满意、并不断开拓新领域业务。

In my college days, designing stage lighting systems for customers, I had a test rig that I used during a sales presentation. The reason I built this is that a customer had his electrician contracted to do the install work (we didn’t do the electrical install, just specification). When I specified 20 Amp breakers and told the customer that they’d be limited unless they upgraded their service, they told me that their guy had taken care of it.

Please nobody get one of these boards. It is not a safe design for working with mains voltages. This guy has not followed guidelines for minimum creepage and clearances between the low voltage and mains side. You think it’s optoisolated and it may work fine for the majority of the time, but as soon as a mains voltage spike comes along it could bridge the gap and zap your circuit and you if you’re touching it (and your computer if you’re doing doing dev work at the time).

Read ‘Hack’ as in ” don’t really know what they’re doing” or ” shouldn’t really work but does anyway”

It really sounds like the issue here is only anticipating a steady load and not a cold start (figuratively and literally) when choosing componenets

But at the very same time, if the rectifier dissipates enough energy for this to be a concern, then it is probably a poorly designed power supply to start with. As most power supplies will be designed for the voltage range of 110 to 250 volts AC. And as it will draw the most current down at 110 volts, then this is where the manufacturer has their specifications chiseled in stone, as if we want 1100 watts, then we need at least 10 amps when we have 110 volts AC on the input. This means that we “effectively” have 5 amps to dissipate per diode.