Does Tesla Make The Best Value EVSE For Non-Tesla Owners? | 220v Contactor Relay

I suppose if you want, you can stick your fingers into the toaster slot to touch the exposed element and push down the slider or try to make toast while taking a bath. Otherwise, you are not making any contacts with the high voltage.

I used a bridge rectifier from a stick welder, it takes 120vac down to 63vdc with no load. Out put it into a pair of MWT primary coils in parallel. Just like this one. Works but draws too much current. The field strength is around 300 pounds. The coil resistance is about 3 ohms, and draws around 20 amps.

Adjusting settings via the Fn menu is generally a good experience. A very nice touch is that you can use the up/down/left/right directions of the 4-way controller to move the cursor between Fn menu items, and then use the front control dial to adjust the settings. This is nice because it lets you quickly make a number of Fn settings changes in succession, without having to drop down a menu level for each, or being forced out of the Fn menu between choices. The few exceptions to this are those items with a second level of control, such as multi-shot ISO or the tweak adjustments for white balance settings. In those cases, you need to explicitly select the menu item via the OK button, and then use the left/right keys to make the needed adjustment. The only exit at that point is to hit the OK button again, which unfortunately drops you out of the Fn menu entirely.

Regular gasoline costs about $3 per gallon where I live, so it’ll cost (26 / 46 * 3) = $1.70 to propel the Niro the next 26 miles after the battery is depleted.

Which part is wrong? Lets use the IEC definitions of the different systems for clarity and you can educate me with some links to regs where I’m wrong, since I don’t do this for a living or have formal certifications in it. I’ve just a couple of years back installed 380v 3 phase into my barn conversion in mainland France myself and its most definitely a terra terra (TN) earthing system I put in. I had a inspection to get my certificate (certificate du consuel) to connect from a inspector, who during his 3 hr inspection tested the impedance to ground of my independant earth with a megga tester then checked all the earth pins in every socket for spec of impedance back to my earth point, all of which are wired star back to the main consumer unit (ring main is illegal here). We get presented 3 phase wires + a neutral as tails into our main consumer unit from the RCD device (called a disjoncteur) belonging to EDF (supply company) and its not permitted to bond neutral to your own earthing system under the regs.

But I don’t like the mains powered heater in this case: If you take 120W @24V its just 5A. No problem for a switching transistor or wires with 0,5mm² and you keep the mains voltage in the PSU box. Which I prefer in this case. Mains rated cabling (230V here in Europe) are not thinner and need thicker insulation. In the worst case you have to have PE connection to any metal part of the construction.

Although we bumped into each other on job sites, we had different employers. I knew his family and I wasn’t about to ask them about the details of course.

The issue with the DC heated beds seems slow temperature rise. Some bigger builds and beds need a quicker heatbed heater. (In my opinion not needed for PLA) Only for ABS.

The very first point to make clear when writing an article like this one is that you should disregard any ideas of “safe” voltages or currents. While the story about some significant number of people who die every year from licking a 9-volt battery is probably an urban legend and you have little to worry about from low voltage equipment, it is best to look at any higher voltages as potentially dangerous and react accordingly.

Oh, and I have fixed about 15,000 of the old CRT TV’s so while my mistakes can’t ever be called good, they’re not without precedent.

inserts probes into amperge socket sets to VAC and measures 120v wall socket meter goes bang and lets blue smoke out

I’m wondering why nobody is simply rectifying a 120vac input for dc wiring the secondary coil? It means you don’t have to swap the coil location or use a dc power supply. I have a trans with a secondary resistance of 82ohms. Putting 120vdc through it would be about 175watts (assuming I do a good job of determining wire size and 1.46amps is ok)