Current starts derating at about 82C (see page 12). But look at the size and configuration of the heat sink required for a 25A SSR, it is 100mmx100mm with lots of fins (see page 13). That will be with lots of free air, preferably mounted so the fins are vertical or with some forced air flow.
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Five vs Ten amps is a big difference in heating in the power factor correction circuit of his power supply. If you find a data sheet for similar power supplies, they are always 1-3% more efficient on 220Vac and run cooler because of it.
If you hesitate at the thought of doing this math for every system you work on, the NEC Article 110.3(B) states: Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.
⢠A 24-V dc circuit ⢠Current waveform for surge is 8 à 20 μs; voltage waveform is 1.2 à 50 μs (these are typical industry-standard waveforms) ⢠Peak current during the surge = 1000 A ⢠The MOV must be able to survive 40 surges ⢠Other circuit components (control IC, etc.) must be rated to withstand 300 V maximum
I guess you missed my writing ignorant people doing stupid things People using a metal utensil to clear a jammed toaster isn’t unheard of but still there are no barriers to that. Perhaps there are bread toaster that use an enclosed heating element like many toaster ovens use, but my fairly new UL labeled toaster uses the same style of heating element hat been used for decades. That what you quoted was directed the the DIY individual more likely to come across something like this, not average John or Jane Doe.
AC is safer than DC. You can let go of two AC terminals but not DC as DC keeps your muscles clenched. AC doesn’t.
“Normal” mains voltage heating elements use nichrome (nickel chromium) some time called “resistance wire” because it has a higher resistance for a given surface area.
That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.
Agreed, the component is under rated from the start. If you look at a datasheet from a 25A SSR from a better company you will find something like de-rating curves which really show that as you move from the ideal conditions (20C temp, infinite heatsink) you should only use a smaller load. It is pretty easy to reach a limit of half the max load in normal conditions.
Whether you call it neutral or ground is (I suppose) not important, what is important is that there is no distinction between neutral and ground until you are at the customer’s meter.
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