Facebook and Google hit with $8.8 billion in GDPR lawsuits | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

I have been led to believe (largely by bigclive) that Fotek are OK but there are lots of fake Foteks out there.

Adjusting settings via the Fn menu is generally a good experience. A very nice touch is that you can use the up/down/left/right directions of the 4-way controller to move the cursor between Fn menu items, and then use the front control dial to adjust the settings. This is nice because it lets you quickly make a number of Fn settings changes in succession, without having to drop down a menu level for each, or being forced out of the Fn menu between choices. The few exceptions to this are those items with a second level of control, such as multi-shot ISO or the tweak adjustments for white balance settings. In those cases, you need to explicitly select the menu item via the OK button, and then use the left/right keys to make the needed adjustment. The only exit at that point is to hit the OK button again, which unfortunately drops you out of the Fn menu entirely.

Before we get too deep into this topic of wire sizing, let’s acknowledge that while detailed conductor sizing is the job of engineers and electricians (not HVACR technicians), there are many cases where contractors are tasked with assessing whether a breaker or conductor (wire) is adequate in both retrofit and service situations.

Continuing USWaterRockets: PCB could just have the solder mask on, mostly for oxidation/contamination protection, with the heating element trace a single top layer. Put a plate of borosilicate glass (maybe tempered?) tightly over it to spread heat and protect from shock, with overhang on the hazard side. If you want to get fancy, add an “active” indicator LED and a few thermal sensors on the bottom layer. Mind your PCB glass mat material and construction – make sure that the construction can handle the heat (a good [not great, not cheap] construction can handle ~170C before it reaches glass transition temperature)

Would that have ever been considered good wiring practice, or is it just the sort of short-cut that would have been done at some point?

Theres a homebrew 80vdc @150amp supply in my cnc converted bridgeport, that runs the entire dc rail for the steppers and other stuff, its always scared me slightly because I know that the big transformer its based on has a mag field and when it collapses and it has some massive smoothing capacitors to boot, so I have masses of isolation distance everywhere the dc side runs and I disable the transformer with a dedicated switch while working in the cabinet of it. I had a stepper driver supplied directly off the rail go bad and it just had a large hole where it used to be. I just imagine that was a bit of me if I get tempted to get sloppy with it. I’ve never put much thought into getting electrocuted by a welder, I’ve tickled my finger with my 3 phase tig set more than a few times getting too close and giving a nice easy starting path to the startup pulse. Maybe I should, I’ve got a massive 3 phase 380v transformer tig that can do 375amp dc, that tends to throw all the breakers out while its saturating its massive transformer with the inrush current… I try to treat mains voltage with the respsect it deserves. Its a killer, but if you take sensible precautions and steps you can avoid it being you it happens to.

If you had a mains-voltage shock once and got away with it, you were lucky, that doesn’t mean the voltage is safe, you were merely playing a game of Russian Roulette with Ohm’s Law and a low impedance high voltage supply. Your domestic mains can dump the hefty amounts of current your home heating, your cooker, or your electric kettle demands, so if it finds a low resistance path through you then it is going have no problems dumping whatever current Ohm’s Law allows it to through that path. The chances are if it happens to you the path will be a high enough resistance that you’ll only get a very nasty jolt and live to tell the tale, but if it’s not your lucky day the resistance will be low enough that you’re just going to sit on the end of it twitching until the power is turned off, whether you’re alive or not. That’s the gruesome truth. Mess with this stuff and you can die, end of story. You are responsible for keeping yourself safe, and this is not a joke. OK? Now to work!

It’s been a week and I am almost constantly having to keep the car charging while at home just to keep up. On my previous L2, I charged every 2 to 3 days. My first problem was the outlet closest to the driveway shares the circuit with the family room. Oops, popping the breaker every time. The front of the house outlet wasn’t any better. Luckily there is a basement outlet I can drive to and get a charge with no issues.

In plain English, what that means is that the thing AIN’T CERTIFIED FOR ANYTHING. It just means the device has met MINIMAL safety concerns, when operated under typical conditions. It doesn’t say anything about out-of-the-ordinary conditions.

I don’t know if the heat is high enough but mirror heating pads can be quite small and put under a sheet of glass would be quite effective.

I can’t think of any good reason for a toggle switch to get hot. If I ever found a hot toggle switch, I’d call that a fire hazard and recommend repair.

The potentially game-changing performance of the Sony A33′s EVF overshadows its excellent rear-panel LCD, which is a little unfair: It’s as good an LCD as is found on any other camera, and in at least one sense literally outshines them all. It’s the same widescreen ~920K-dot high-resolution LCD we’ve seen now on a wide range of cameras from a variety of makers, but its implementation on the Sony A33 adds a couple of useful twists. First, of course, it literally twists and rotates, albeit from the bottom of the body, rather than the side. This unfortunately makes it useless for composing self-portraits with the camera mounted on a tripod, but otherwise is quite helpful for getting over-the-head and ground-level shots with ease.