Firefox Monitor will let you know if your data has been stolen | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I suppose I would’ve used small contactors with auxiliary contacts as interlocking instead through some sort of arrangement, but that’s only because I have a pile of them lying around (and you would just put the wires under terminals rather than QD’s) but as I said (and you reinforced) I trusted your QD’s, particularly at these…”small” levels of current.

Not to be argumentative, but please show me a case in which a H/O policy denied coverage for a fire loss because the homeowner used a non-UL listed device. H/O policies are contracts, strictly regulated by each state’s insurance department. The vast majority of H/O policies are “All Risk” based, meaning that you are covered for everything unless there is a specific exclusion for it. I have read many times on this forum and others about H/O policies not covering such claims, please show me ONE that actually is true. There may be one out there, but I have never seen it.

“I don’t think” – hehehe I’ll agree with that. My utility company provides 3rd world electricity in August. Most days the juice drops to 103 without anything on in the house. I’d love to have as much as 110. Fortunately, the L1 car charger works down to 100, and the L2 stuff works at 187 – the lowest I’ve measured. 5 big reasons why the juice is so bad, but then I’m not paying for the loss, so its not a biggie with me. Just worry a bit about the refrig and freezer.

Don’t call at the end of the day if you want same-day service. After 4:30 or 5:30 p.m., I need to pay my workers overtime, so I’ll charge you more to make up for it. Calling first thing in the morning lets me fit your job into my day—and you’ll see a lower bill.

I would also use a solid state relay. And I would think about gluing the glass plate with high temp silicone to the PCB. This vastly improves thermal contact and so heat transfer which reduces peak temp and thermal lag in the control loop. Also it prevents exposed live wires even in case the glass breaks.

Maybe what should be done is a special 240 outlet be developed and installed in all new construction (1 per garage). Something with safety features like thermal monitoring built into outlet. This would probably cost less than all those annoying ARC fault breakers I am required to have…

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Probably doesn’t completely answer your question, but you might like to watch this for more info about RCD/RCBOs and how they operate. It contains some very entertaining explosions. }:~)

The Model 3 is showing 118V @ 12A which is 1.4kW. The same screen shows 1kW/hour being added, but it is rounding down. I need to take a 8 or 10 hour session and total up the numbers.

This is true in a certain temperature range, I think between 70 and 90% of their nominal power. And in spite of that there are so many lamps with halogen bulbs, which are fitted with dimmer circuits. And you know why? Because the bulbs are very cheap, so nobody cares And they are often used as heating elements: in a professional reflow oven (3000,- euro class) and in laser printers. But in the end I think for the heated print bed you do NOT want a radiative heat source, it complicates the things

Zaprodk bitches about the absence of a fuse — which is clearly explained to be located on a separate power entry board.

It’s good to see a snubber on the design (that’s often omitted on DIY designs I’ve seen). There are a few TRIACs that are designed to commute highly-inductive loads (“snubberless” is the marketing term I’ve seen) — may worth looking into them to reduce the BOM.