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This doesn’t make any sense, why not use an extension cord with the 220 already in the house? A 6 or 8 gauge cord for 75 feet should be perfectly fine.

Norm, remember your high school electrical classes, and don’t confuse the young ‘uns here. I’m sure you’ll recall that halving the current reduces losses (heating) in a conductor to one quarter: losses are proportional to the square of the current.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock#Factors_in_lethality_of_electric_shock If the current can be limited to Less than 30mA or less people should live, see the graph in the above link. This is much easier to achieve with lower voltages because the human body resistance is higher with lower voltage shocks ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock#Body_resistance ).

The TLDR; is – “In high voltage systems clearance according to EN60065:1994, 3 mm is required for Class I and for Class II, 6 mm is required in mains operated systems (240VAC)”

Best answer: Probably. The Amazon Smart Plug was designed to work with most any product you have in your home but there are some exceptions and devices that shouldn’t be connected.

Window AC units blast for hours at time and use massive amounts of energy. An extension cord—and usually even sharing the circuit powering your AC with something else—overloads the wires. If they get too hot, the wires could short out and start a fire. Make sure the unit gets its own circuit, meaning a switch on your electrical panel dedicated to your AC and nothing else. Here are 11 more home safety risks and how to avoid them.

This is a heater that’s going to be near fingers, or elbows, and is completely accessible to them, completely easy to touch. One day, when he’s distracted thinking about something else (not rare), he’ll end up touching the heater and getting a shock.

MOVs tend to degrade gradually after a large surge or multiple small surges. This degradation leads to increasing MOV leakage current; in turn, this raises the MOV’s temperature, even under normal conditions such as a 120-V ac or 240-V ac operating voltage. A thermal disconnect adjacent to the MOV (Fig. 4) can be used to sense the increase in MOV temperature while it continues to degrade to its end-of-life condition. At this point, the thermal disconnect will open the circuit, removing the degraded MOV from the circuit and thus preventing potential catastrophic failure.

I had my own suggestions further up in the comments here, and I’d like to believe I expressed them respectfully, and TJ addressed them. And, as is appropriate, the article text has an exhortation to not play with HV power without due care.

The comments section of this article is disgusting. Most people throwing rocks at TJ have no idea what they’re talking about, or their concerns are obviously apparent to anyone reading TJ’s post.

I don’t know where do you see low voltage traces close to mains voltage. Trace from R8 to the opto is 2.64. How far do you think it should be to meet your standards? Conformal coating is telling you anything?

Converting mains voltage down to 12 or 24VDC to drive a heating element makes no sense. To get 120 watts at 12 volts requires thick wires that can handle 10 amps, whereas at 120V, tiny 1A wires will do. If you’ve ever felt the MOSFET that switches your heated bed on and off, you know it’s working hard to pass that much current. [Makertum] is of the opinion this is a dumb idea. He’s creating a 110 / 230 V, mains-powered heated bed.