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I work with high voltage all day everyday except for weekends, and then I’m probably doing some wiring or something at my house. 480VAC is on the low end of the voltage scale for what I do. The biggest and most important safety tip is: “Know thy equipment.”. That means knowing where the 480VAC is coming in, everything it powers, where that voltage gets stepped up to thousands of volts, what chassis and assemblies are floating at high voltage, at what point of the turn on sequence they are at high voltage, knowing what to use a chicken stick on when things are powered down (i.e. the high voltage bits – BUT NEVER AC MAINS!!!). I’ve seen the ends of chicken sticks where the unknowing tried to short 480VAC to ground… thank el diablo for fast acting circuit breakers… If you do not know what the hell you are doing or think suiting up in some silly bomb suit and silly gloves that are going to get you killed faster with than without, you need to stay the hell away from anything over 28 volts…. You cannot troubleshoot everything with LOTO, you sure as hell can’t troubleshoot with big stupid gloves and a bomb suit on. Those things were invented by desk jockeys who have never had to work on anything themselves in their lives. Great for theory, terrible for getting shit done. Knowledge is the only thing that will keep you safe. Stupidity and trusting others to keep you safe will kill you.

I couldn’t even find a de-rating chart or graph online for this relay. Also, many SSRs (and other devices) do not recommend the “bottom” orientation for heat sinks.

Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)

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But saws only bite in one direction, which is why the working stroke has to be in phase. Doesn’t matter which way the dudes are facing, they have to apply force to it in the same direction at the same time, and the other stroke is just returning back to starting point.

I get called in all the time for problems with space heaters. If you leave the house while the heater is running, the connection could get loose and burn up the plug, which could start a fire. Give your space heater the space it needs, and turn it off when you aren’t using it. Learn more about how to use a space heater safely.

And for example the max continuous current one is “rated” for is 20A, and when I calculated the values without any heat sink, I should be able to run about 700mA. A lot of people forget to do this step before de-rating.

Actually what they WOULD question is why you’d throw a big power brick on something if you’re just doing resistance heating. Bizarre…

Leaving their advanced capabilities aside, the Sony A33 and A55 are also remarkably compact cameras. As we’ve noted elsewhere, because the mirror in the camera isn’t used to form a viewfinder image, it can be mounted at a steeper angle than normal, removing some thickness from the camera body as a whole (the flange-sensor distance must obviously remain the same, but there’s more room in the body for the shake-reduction system and other electronics), and the space normally required for the mirror drive system could be trimmed from the sides. As a result, the body is noticeably compact.

Nichrome expands a lot when it’s heated which is why it’s often in spirals or loops. Copper also expands significantly when it heats so what ‘relief’ could there be for this expansion – and at a high enough temperature the copper traces would de-laminate from the FR4.

And the MOC3041 can not handle a 1 amp load, “Peak repetitive surge current” is what it can handle for 0.0001 seconds at every 60Hz cycle before getting (possibly) damaged. The continuous load limit is far less than 1 amp.