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I heard from an instructor that some guys from the national power company use full PPE when switching on/off old main fuses in domestic installations (230V, 15 to maybe 60A). These things are fully plastic and can be operated by everyone, so no PPE needed, but it seems like they explode sometimes – maybe because of the dust you mentionned.

In this case, multiply the number of times you charged the car by 8.9 kWh for a low estimate of electric power consumed. For a better estimate, you need to know what the battery charging losses are. It takes more than 8.9 kWh to charge an 8.9 kWh battery – some of the power gets lost to heat. I can’t find authoritative data, but posters on Tesla forums claiming to have measured this report losses between 10 and 20%. If you assume it’s 15%, then it’ll take 8.9 / (1 – .15) = 10.5 kWh to charge the Niro’s battery.

GFCI breakers aren’t usually used because they aren’t accessible to normal operators like a outlet mounted one would be.

The Mode dial on the left shoulder is used to select the camera’s operating mode. An angled panel allows you to view four buttons from either the rear or above: Menu, Movie, Exposure Compensation, and Auto-exposure Lock buttons.

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I’m glad you are aware of all of the many issues surrounding this kind of a hack. I spent 15 years as a commercial electrician, so the first thing that I did when I started to read this was think, “Oh, crap. Someone’s going to kill themselves.” I’m glad that’s not the case here.

Japan is odd for another reason. The two “halves” of the country are on different frequencies. I believe the West is at 50 Hz and the East and North is 60 Hz. They have a collection of DC interconnects in the middle of the country to facilitate power sharing across this otherwise intransigent gap. Since the shutdown of Fukushima, those interconnects have been under quite a bit of strain, but that’s a whole ‘nother story.

I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…

It’s the peak rating. For constant loads, or anything that could be temporarily constant you need to de-rate.

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*My* electricity is cheap (~$0.065/kW), so that 117 miles would cost about $7.61. Gas in my area is down to about $2.70/gallon, so the total fuel cost for those 253 miles would be about $16. Other areas of the country might be higher for electricity and lower for gas.

So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.

1. A hot-neutral reversal will supply the 208/240V relay with 120V. It will make an angry buzzing noise but won’t close. Two hot-neutral reversals will supply it with 0 volts.

It’s the other way around. Muscles and nerves respond to di/dt and not constant current. You can let go of DC but not AC because the continuous pulsing is how the nerves signal the muscle to contract.


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