Google reportedly paid Andy Rubin $90 million after he allegedly coerced sex from employee | 220v Contactor Relay

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extra-low_voltage >Extra-low voltage (ELV), in electricity supply, is one of several means to protect against electrical shock. The International Electrotechnical Commission and its member organizations define an ELV circuit as one in which the electrical potential of any conductor against earth (ground) is not more than either 25 volts RMS (35 volts peak) for alternating current[inconsistent], or ripple-free 60 volts for direct current under dry conditions.

And if your primary and secondary are of different wire gauges, the thinner one becomes your limiting current factor. Wired in parallel gives the same ampere-turn count, but with less resistance, possible more AMPeres, so more aoere-turns.

Converting mains voltage down to 12 or 24VDC to drive a heating element makes no sense. To get 120 watts at 12 volts requires thick wires that can handle 10 amps, whereas at 120V, tiny 1A wires will do. If you’ve ever felt the MOSFET that switches your heated bed on and off, you know it’s working hard to pass that much current. [Makertum] is of the opinion this is a dumb idea. He’s creating a 110 / 230 V, mains-powered heated bed.

Might be safer your way, since you’re transforming down, then back up again. Using a microwave oven transformer means horribly high voltages in the middle of the thing, and should, by chance, some insulation fail, or a bit of an arc, or whatever…

Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.

1. A hot-neutral reversal will supply the 208/240V relay with 120V. It will make an angry buzzing noise but won’t close. Two hot-neutral reversals will supply it with 0 volts.

Handheld Twilight mode captures a batch of high-ISO images, reducing blur from camera shake, and then averages the aligned exposures so as to reduce image noise. A new Multi-Frame NR mode acts similarly, but allows the ISO sensitivity to be selected manually, allowing use even at lower sensitivities. Of course, these effects could all be achieved in a PC with some work and know-how, but what’s impressive is that they’re now available with a minimum of fuss, in-camera. To ensure that even inexperienced photographers can derive benefit from these features, Sony has also created a new Auto+ exposure mode that can identify when these functions might be of use, and then enable them automatically.

A good quality EVSE can cost between $300 and around $1,200. If you’re choosing a wall-mounted unit, expect to pay another several hundred dollars for installation, depending on local labor rates and permit costs.

The net result is that, while the Sony Alpha A33 is a fair bit thicker front-to-back than single-lens direct-view (SLD) cameras, which can do away with the bulky mirror box entirely, it’s still an exceptionally small camera by SLR standards. If the handgrip depth is ignored, the Sony A33 is actually just a little smaller than the smallest digital SLR to date, the Olympus E-420. Unlike the smallest SLD cameras, the A33 still includes a built-in electronic viewfinder — and for those SLDs that can accept an optional electronic viewfinder, much of their size advantage over Sony’s SLT-series models is erased once it’s installed. Sony’s A33 thus occupies a comfortable middle ground, sacrificing little of the versatility of a traditional SLR, yet bringing a worthwhile advantage in portability.

But if the power supply isn’t made for the 110-120 volt market, then yes, this can be a legit concern.

Where a conventional SLR has an optical viewfinder, the Sony A33/55 substitutes an electronic display with an eyepiece attached. (An electronic viewfinder, or EVF for short.) The image for the EVF is taken from the main image sensor, so the camera is essentially always in "Live View" mode. Mechanically, the eyepiece projects out from the back of the camera a fair bit, to leave room for the camera’s autofocus system in front of the EVFs micro display and viewfinder optics. I found I actually liked this rear projection, as it left a bit more room for my nose when I held the camera to my eye. Happily, the neckstrap eyelets are arranged such that the camera hangs lens-down when on a neck strap, so I had no trouble with the projecting eyepiece poking me in the chest.

To be exact: It’s the anode or acceleration voltage. Focus is usually some kV, but derived from a 100Meg voltage divider.