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I’m always a little torn over really small camera bodies, as it can be uncomfortable to twist my longer-than-average fingers around a small handgrip. That said, I really didn’t find the smallish grip on the Sony A55 too objectionable. The design of the front grip naturally encourages my middle and third fingers to curve downward, my pinkie to fold underneath the body, and to carry the weight of the camera on my middle finger, between the second and third knuckle. My customary two-handed SLR grip, with one hand on the lens’ zoom ring made for a comfortable and secure hold.

It really sounds like the issue here is only anticipating a steady load and not a cold start (figuratively and literally) when choosing componenets

When using the Sony A33 with a neckstrap and particularly light lens, this might cause it to bump against your body, but with even moderately heavy lenses the camera will turn face-down even though this doesn’t match the strap mount alignment, and this won’t be an issue. A positive side-effect of the EVF positioning is that it makes it easier to keep your nose from smudging the LCD panel. Given the relatively tight eyepoint of the electronic viewfinder, the projection also helps prevent the photographer having to jam the camera to their face to see the entire viewfinder display.

If you’re invested in the Alexa ecosystem, the Amazon Smart Plug is super reliable, dead simple to set up, and works with most electrical products you would find in the home. Be sure to heed the warnings found in the in-box manual!

The guy on final test stood on a rubber block but still used to get blown across the floor once a month

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Leaving their advanced capabilities aside, the Sony A33 and A55 are also remarkably compact cameras. As we’ve noted elsewhere, because the mirror in the camera isn’t used to form a viewfinder image, it can be mounted at a steeper angle than normal, removing some thickness from the camera body as a whole (the flange-sensor distance must obviously remain the same, but there’s more room in the body for the shake-reduction system and other electronics), and the space normally required for the mirror drive system could be trimmed from the sides. As a result, the body is noticeably compact.

I don’t. I’m on my second ELECTRIC lawnmower, which by the time I bought a decent one cost me around $1600 for the two. I gave the first TORO away since it only had 1/3 hp on a good day. The current Snapper I have puts out a bit more than 1 hp and it is the first batter electric I’ve tried that had adequate power. Unfortunately, I need $600 of batteries to cut my lawn, but the fast charger can keep up with my lawn cutting so I can do my HUGE lawn and also a neighbors.

Europe is a real patchwork of degrees of sketchy. German wiring standards are very high indeed, at least in the semi-industrial places (laboratories, hospitals) I worked. The real Schuko plug/socket design is quite nice and safe, and hard to find *not* implemented correctly in Germany. Other countries, not so much. And don’t get me started on English and South African wiring and plugs.

WIRE CONTACTOR: A wire and contactor displaying the 90°C rating on the wire and 75°C rating on the contactor (when properly torqued).

“If you can power the logic side with some +5V derived from mains, there is no point keeping the optocouplers, right?”

So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.