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The Battery operated Snow Blowers you see advertised are just toys… Just figure out how big the battery is and the trivial amount of work it could do.

I’ve done enough research about power capacitors and mains voltage that after I unplug anything, including all the TV’s that I work on, to repeatedly press and/or hold the power button until I’m satisfied that it’s discharged before cracking it open.

I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design. I haven’t made the effort to investigate the heating elements as of yet.

Prior circuit. The OP says in the thread that he puts 8 foot cords on his so he doesn’t need to use an extension cord. Personally I’d go longer, also I’d keep a common “3-lamp” outlet tester handy.

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This is great info. In the next instalments I would love to see advice in dealing with a mains power supply and possibly a power line carrier modem on the same board or enclosure as low voltage components.

TJ may also want to mention on his project page that without a choke, the TRIAC will dump out a ton of EMI (that’s why most commercial dimmers have to have a choke in series with the load to be able to get FCC certification).

I have used a setup like this using two back-to-back “door-bell” transformers (220V to 9V) to play with neon tubes when I was a kid. The current was so low that even a lightbulb wouldn’t turn on. However, it was enough to teach me about electric shock from mains voltage when I have carelessly put my finger across the output terminals …

Under a heavy load, an A/C unit can trip an electrical breaker. Check the breaker box to make sure this hasn’t happened, and also use a multimeter to check the fuses inside the disconnect block next to your air conditioner to make sure they are still functioning. If either of these scenarios appear, there could be an underlying electrical problem with your home’s main box. Have an electrician look at that.

Leaving their advanced capabilities aside, the Sony A33 and A55 are also remarkably compact cameras. As we’ve noted elsewhere, because the mirror in the camera isn’t used to form a viewfinder image, it can be mounted at a steeper angle than normal, removing some thickness from the camera body as a whole (the flange-sensor distance must obviously remain the same, but there’s more room in the body for the shake-reduction system and other electronics), and the space normally required for the mirror drive system could be trimmed from the sides. As a result, the body is noticeably compact.

Not really clear but good point. I met an electrician who told me : ‘230VAC is not dangerous, I’m getting shocked a lot, it really hurts when its 400VAC. Oh by the way, I have to get an appointment for my heart !’

With the primaries wired together, the magnets are epoxy potted, the business end is faced off cleanly, and the whole thing put to the test. [MakeItExtreme] doesn’t go into control details in the video below, but the website mentions the magnet being powered off a 24V 15A power supply with battery backup in case of mains failure.