Google’s Night Sight for Pixel phones will amaze you | 19mm Momentary Push Button

The basic concept of your point is looney. Voltage doesn’t cause heat, The only thing heat dependent for a given installation is the current – of which 120 volt charging is usually less than 240.

Continuous shooting. As well as allowing full-time AF during live view and movie capture, the translucent mirror design of the Sony Alpha A33 brings another important advantage. During burst shooting with continuous autofocus, a traditional SLR has to drop its mirror between each frame, wait just long enough for any mirror vibration to settle, perform the AF measurement, and then raise the mirror again so that the next frame can be captured. Using a pellicle mirror, there’s no reflex mirror to raise, and so the only delay required is to wait for the lens aperture to open after the exposure has been completed. For even swifter burst shooting, the aperture can be locked at either F3.5, or the maximum aperture of the lens, whichever is smaller, removing the delay required to set and reset the aperture to allow focusing between shots. The Sony A33 offers burst shooting at up to six frames per second ordinarily, but with the aperture locked in Continuous Priority AE shoots even faster, providing a very respectable seven frames per second. (Its sibling, the A55, is even swifter with a whopping ten frames per second in Continuous Priority AE mode.) Sony also notes that, for like framerates, the autofocus system in the Alpha A33 can be active for a greater proportion of the time compared to a traditional SLR, providing more data from which to make AF tracking predictions.

“Engineering types”? – I would suspect business or accounting “types” to be responsible for “saving” on maintenance. Engineers normally know, that maintenance is important.

On the positive side, the mechanism does allow the LCD to be folded facing inwards, providing some degree of protection against minor knocks and smudges when traveling and when you’re content to use the EVF instead. The Xtra Fine LCD panel has a 921,600-dot resolution. The display also uses Sony’s TruBlack technology, which couples a reinforced glass cover plate with anti-reflective film, and a resin filling that removes the air gap beneath the cover plate, which the company says improves contrast and reduces glare under harsh sunlight.

Why not use a silicone pad block heater for cars? You glue them on, they run on 120v and work good. It’s robust enough to sit on the bottom of your engine, in elements and gravel spray from the road, for years. They even come with a little tube of aluminum adhesive. Seems like a pretty good fit.

Step 1:  To find the voltage rating of the MOV, allow for 20% headroom to account for voltage swell and power-supply tolerances: 24 V dc × 1.2 = 28.8 V dc. Given that no varistors have a voltage rating of exactly 28.8 V, check the datasheets for specifications for 31-V dc MOVs.

I work with high voltage all day everyday except for weekends, and then I’m probably doing some wiring or something at my house. 480VAC is on the low end of the voltage scale for what I do. The biggest and most important safety tip is: “Know thy equipment.”. That means knowing where the 480VAC is coming in, everything it powers, where that voltage gets stepped up to thousands of volts, what chassis and assemblies are floating at high voltage, at what point of the turn on sequence they are at high voltage, knowing what to use a chicken stick on when things are powered down (i.e. the high voltage bits – BUT NEVER AC MAINS!!!). I’ve seen the ends of chicken sticks where the unknowing tried to short 480VAC to ground… thank el diablo for fast acting circuit breakers… If you do not know what the hell you are doing or think suiting up in some silly bomb suit and silly gloves that are going to get you killed faster with than without, you need to stay the hell away from anything over 28 volts…. You cannot troubleshoot everything with LOTO, you sure as hell can’t troubleshoot with big stupid gloves and a bomb suit on. Those things were invented by desk jockeys who have never had to work on anything themselves in their lives. Great for theory, terrible for getting shit done. Knowledge is the only thing that will keep you safe. Stupidity and trusting others to keep you safe will kill you.

Let’s see, you’ve pooh-poohed my 12kV hit and [Scott_Tx]’s 90V one, so I guess 440V three-phase (was it the high leg, or one of the low legs?) is the sweet spot for you. Lucky for our edification that the boots did indeed save you. I knew someone who was quite thoroughly taken out by 220V in a basement while wearing (presumably damp) leather sandals.

With the nation’s network of public electric vehicle charging facilities still relatively thin, most EV owners charge their rides at home. This can be as easy to accomplish as plugging the car into a wall outlet or as complex as having solar panels installed to replenish an EV’s battery.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock#Factors_in_lethality_of_electric_shock If the current can be limited to Less than 30mA or less people should live, see the graph in the above link. This is much easier to achieve with lower voltages because the human body resistance is higher with lower voltage shocks ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock#Body_resistance ).

The printer does not print onto the heater. The heater is normally under the bed which can be a variety of materials. I use polycarbonate, a lot of people use glass, I think most printers come with aluminium with Kapton tape on top. The heater for the bed is usually safely tucked away where you would need to be somewhat of a contortionist to actually touch it.

I’m renovating my basement, and putting in a 240V line to my garage. Just for something to do, as I don’t have an EV.