Why reinvent what is already on the market? There are heating panels beeing sold as accessory for 3d printers already. I just saw a 300x200mm 200W 230VAC silicone heating pad for around 90$. The vendor (multec.de) however clearly states that the installation has to be done by a certified electrician. I’m pretty shure these pads could be sourced a lot cheaper on other sources too. If you think you can just DIY around with 230VAC, make a mistake and hurt/kill somebody or burn down a house, you will be f”cked for life, because no insurance company will cover you. And if you kill yourself and have a family, well, thats not that great for them either. Keep that in mind. I’d rather use a bed made for 48VDC. Powersupplys are abundant for that voltage (standard for a lot of telecom/industrial equipment), reasonably safe to work with compared to 230VAC, and you still get 4 times lower currents (or more power at same current) compared to a 12V bed.
Interesting idea. You don’t need a 3D printer for this though. Conductive strips or simple wire should work fine.
厦门仲鑫达自动化设备有限公司是一家长年专业从事全球知名品牌ABB DSQC机器人系统模块备件及西门子摩尔（Siemens Moore APACS）控制系统零部件销售企业、我们售出的备品备件均提供一年的质量保证、并且都经过了严格的测试和认证。
Two inputs for the beefy converter are supplied from outlets not just on separate circuits, but on two circuits whose hot lines are 180 degrees out of phase. That means identifying where there are two plugs, not protected by GFCI outlets or breakers, which are on two separate hot lines of split phase power. To protect the user, [Nick] designed in a set of relays which kill the circuit when one of the two supplies is unplugged. A system that didn’t have these protections would have mains voltage on the prongs of the disconnected plug.
The net result is that, while the Sony Alpha A33 is a fair bit thicker front-to-back than single-lens direct-view (SLD) cameras, which can do away with the bulky mirror box entirely, it’s still an exceptionally small camera by SLR standards. If the handgrip depth is ignored, the Sony A33 is actually just a little smaller than the smallest digital SLR to date, the Olympus E-420. Unlike the smallest SLD cameras, the A33 still includes a built-in electronic viewfinder — and for those SLDs that can accept an optional electronic viewfinder, much of their size advantage over Sony’s SLT-series models is erased once it’s installed. Sony’s A33 thus occupies a comfortable middle ground, sacrificing little of the versatility of a traditional SLR, yet bringing a worthwhile advantage in portability.
Of course in many parts of the world that’s not possible like it is here in the US where better than 60% of homes have access to NG
The Residual Current Circuit Breaker is a tad expensive, and is probably overkill for most hobbyists. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlet, (GFCI), is cheaper to buy, cheaper to have installed, and a *knowledgeable* do-it-yourselfer can install his or her own. If you are knowledgeable about electrical wiring and codes, but don’t want to change an outlet in your house, you can buy a GFCI outlet and some regular outlets and make your own ground-fault-protected power bar, as a correctly wired GFCI outlet can protect additional regular (cheap) outlets as well. Alternatively, I’ve also seen GFCI units that plug in overtop of regular outlets and add protection to them.
Yes, there is a difference in running AC and DC through a rectifier. As as Limroh states, only two of our rectifying diods will be used, and therefor be under higher stress.
[Nick Sayer] falls into the “would rather build it than buy it” category. This particular project is a clone of a fast electric vehicle charger. There are commercially available versions sold under the Quick 220 brand name. The idea is that for fast charging, some electric vehicles call for a 240V outlet and Americans without electric cars often don’t have one. If they do it’s for an appliance like a stove or clothes dryer and probably not found in the garage.
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Why not use a silicone pad block heater for cars? You glue them on, they run on 120v and work good. It’s robust enough to sit on the bottom of your engine, in elements and gravel spray from the road, for years. They even come with a little tube of aluminum adhesive. Seems like a pretty good fit.
You need to factor in the kWh you used within the week (along with the cost per kWh). This will give people a better idea of actual cost to power this vehicle 253 miles.
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