You can not do it much more complicated! If you want to heat your print bed by induction, it has to be ferromagnetic to work with a commercial induction cookers coil. And using the copper coil as resistive heater is also no good idea.
Before we get too deep into this topic of wire sizing, let’s acknowledge that while detailed conductor sizing is the job of engineers and electricians (not HVACR technicians), there are many cases where contractors are tasked with assessing whether a breaker or conductor (wire) is adequate in both retrofit and service situations.
So, you agree with 3mm. Good. A step forward. And because I see you want to use that Industrial standard as example how is your standard looking in case of soldermasked and conformal coated board? What I can say is that I used the 3mm/kV rule and never failed me in 25 years, no board rejected ever…and for the sake of the discution, as you know, when we are under 500V/10A circuits things looks a bit different in PCB Design. We are not sending nobody to the Moon nor switching a 500A Engine starter. It’s a max 300W lighbulb Switch and it’s 99.99% safer than the latest zilions of made in China dimmers and fake USB SMPS Mobile Chargers that arrived in your city in the last month.
I have been led to believe (largely by bigclive) that Fotek are OK but there are lots of fake Foteks out there.
Sure I expect my line voltages to vary especially given that the actual spec for my line voltage (UK) is 230V +10%/-6% – my nominal voltage where I’m sitting is around 242V and I’ve seen it go as high as 252 and as low as 220.
The car can accept up to 48 amps, if you purchase the $500 HPWC. Almost 50 miles per hour. Not needed for us.
I suppose if you want, you can stick your fingers into the toaster slot to touch the exposed element and push down the slider or try to make toast while taking a bath. Otherwise, you are not making any contacts with the high voltage.
Something about your calculation here doesn’t make sense to me. 117 EV miles, and I estimate a Niro like this will get roughly 3 miles per kWh (that’s what my Volt does roughly). That means 117/3 = 39 kWh used. 39 times your cheap electricity rate is $2.54, not $7.61.
If you’re worried about activists using media to promote fear and doubt about science and medicine,you’re in the right place. At Science 2.0, scientists are the journalists. with no political bias or editorial control. But we can’t do it alone so please make a difference.
Pools have come a long way. It used to be you had a pump and if you were lucky it had a mechanical timer switch on it. That was it. Now you have digital controllers and spa jets and heaters. You can even get them that connect to your home automation system. If your pool isn’t new enough to do that already, you can get a range of add-on accessories. For a price. [Rob] paid $500 to get a remote for his pool. It wasn’t even WiFi, just a simple RF remote. In 3 years, the transmitter had burned out ($300 to replace) and he decided he had enough. For $20, [Rob] added MQTT control and monitoring to his pool using an ESP8266. You can see the video description of the project below.
I’d like to say that if a circuit breaker is X-degrees over ambient, it’s a problem… but there’s just no hard and fast rule for this. I can’t say this.
Yes, I get that there are societal differences between Eastern ideals and Western ideals. Please understand that Americans also build cheap crap, too- but being across an ocean makes buying and selling a little different, especially with a language barrier and different societal norms. I’ve been bitten by a couple of misrepresented products before on AliExpress, (RGB mechanical switches that were actually just RGB LED’s), but that was my fault- I didn’t look very carefully, and didn’t do my due diligence.
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