Graphcore’s new AI chips are the best-looking server processors you’ll never see | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Chassis floats with just 2. My folks lived in the middle east before my dad retired and I visited them in 2013. You could feel 50hz on the refrigerator door handle. Touching their aluminum iMac gave a nastier jolt. I remember my dad telling me, “yeah, don’t touch that” after trying to plug in a USB stick.

2. At the 1.8V voltage drop Mattias Wandel mentioned in the video, his SSR was dissipating about 40 Watts of energy and the metal bast plate he mounted the SSR to was not sufficient for dissipating 40 Watts of heat energy.

The best defense is to make sure you buy from reputable sources, not from some backyard hardware store or eBay.

That depends on the country. I live in Europe, and people here are allowed to do basic repairs and modification with mains voltage, like adding extra outlets. All the materials such as PVC conduits, wires, outlets, lights, switches and dimmers are readily available in the hardware store. It is however not allowed to mess with anything before the meter or fuses. Some equipment like electric stoves don’t come with power cords. Instead, you open up some compartment, and attach the wires on some screw terminals.

A couple months back I ran across a note in the datasheet for an inexpensive but reputably sourced power MOSFET that said that, while the die itself was rated for 200A continuous/400A peak the package and its leads were only rated for 125A/250A. So I said to myself “I wonder what the mode of failure looks like?” And built up a circuit to drive it to failure in a controlled manner. It was fairly spectacular: 1) the thermal expansion rate of the die doesn’t match that of the package and once you exceed some wattage tension builds up and (at least in the case of my particular DUT) the chip package literally exploded sending shards of epoxy and/or ceramic flying far and wide. 2) with the die now exposed in several areas and the connection to the heatsink thoroughly hosed by the explosion of the package things devolved rapidly and the magic blue smoke escapes (which smells very bad, FYI, and takes a while to fully purge that smell from the workshop).

TRIACs have very low junction voltage / resistance especially when compared to the load they are driving. When they are overloaded they heat causing the the junction voltage to increase rapidly causing exponentially more power to be dissipated by the TRIAC instead of the load. This whole process seems to take about a nanosecond and ends with a small amount of the plastic casing still attached to the legs.

And here I am telling the tale, one reason I snort whenever the momma’s kiddies post their “safety warning” comments on HaD.

Invensys Triconex: 冗余容错控制系统、基于三重模件冗余（TMR）结构的最现代化的容错控制器。

As an example, I went to my mom’s place in the mountains, plugged in my Clarity PHEV using a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord to an outdoor outlet that looked corroded. After an hour I checked the plug and it was hot of course, so I stopped charging, cleaned the outlet thoroughly, plugged it back in and it was cool (or just slightly warm) to the touch along the entire cord and outlet through the charging process. Using the extension cord is dangerous as there is no thermal sensor in the extension cord at the outlet or could be damaged internally. The corroded outlet was dangerous (and could have very likely melted out had I not checked it). The cord can get easily damage.

A lot of times these days, it seems like we hackers are a little like kids in a candy store. With so many cool devices available for pennies at the click of a mouse, it’s temptingly easy to order first and ask questions about quality later. Most of the time that works out just fine, with the main risk of sourcing a dodgy component being a ruined afternoon of hacking when a part fails.

Such an awful practice and terrible idea. I have an EV and would never do this (me being an EE). I decided to make this correctly and I installed dedicated #10 cable from the auxiliary power distribution box to the EV charger as a permanent connection, no plugs no unsafe contraptions, and following all the NEC codes. Those cables you used and the crimp terminals aren’t suited for the current rate. Check them if you don’t believe me. Crimp pressure plug in terminals are rated for around 6 amps of continuous AC current and I hope you used at least 600 A.C. volts insulation cable… Bad, bad idea.

As always, in terms of refinement, petrol or diesel drivers need to recalibrate their minds, not least because the near silence (bar wind noise) below 2000rpm stands in contrast to the engine noise that intrudes thereafter. At a cruise the peace is notable, while if you push on the arrival of engine noise is a momentary surprise rather than a permanent irritation. A sub-8.0sec 0-62mph time underlines that this is a reasonably pacy hatch too.