Your friend reminds me of a domestic main voltage electrician that would test with the back of his hand. He’s dead now.
Level 2 charging systems come in two basic varieties, plug-in portable and wall-mounted units that are hard-wired directly to a home’s electric service. If you don’t have a closed garage and you’ll be charging the vehicle outside, local codes may require a fixed-mount unit. Otherwise a portable charger requires no professional installation, assuming you’ve added the 240-volt service line. This type can come in handy if you own two homes or will be staying with friends or family in another town and want to take the unit along for charging at your destination.
Australia is similar, except 3ph is uncommon in a house. There’s 3 phase at the kerb and each house is connected to one phase.
Creepage to the mounting screws is one issue and that fuse crowed by traces at mains potential is just bad design.
He welded the base of the magnets to the plate that is hold directly to the crane with a hook. Look again.
If you had a mains-voltage shock once and got away with it, you were lucky, that doesn’t mean the voltage is safe, you were merely playing a game of Russian Roulette with Ohm’s Law and a low impedance high voltage supply. Your domestic mains can dump the hefty amounts of current your home heating, your cooker, or your electric kettle demands, so if it finds a low resistance path through you then it is going have no problems dumping whatever current Ohm’s Law allows it to through that path. The chances are if it happens to you the path will be a high enough resistance that you’ll only get a very nasty jolt and live to tell the tale, but if it’s not your lucky day the resistance will be low enough that you’re just going to sit on the end of it twitching until the power is turned off, whether you’re alive or not. That’s the gruesome truth. Mess with this stuff and you can die, end of story. You are responsible for keeping yourself safe, and this is not a joke. OK? Now to work!
Yup, switched off but still plugged in, that way the case is still earthed. Assuming a sensible 3-pin plug, or whatever the hell they do in places with just 2.
If your electrical panel can’t handle a Level 2 EVSE then chances are it needs replacement anyway. Putting in my ClipperCreek was the push I needed to finally do what I should have done 20 years ago which was to replace my 1960s panel with a modern one. The new panel is much safer than the old one and having a permanent LVSE is increadably convenient. You have a $50-$60K car, it makes no sense not to spend $1K on an EVSE, you paid more than that for the paint on your Model 3. I spent $40K for my Volt, before Fed and State rebates, so another 1K to buy and install a CC was nothing and likewise the $2800 I spent on the new 200A panel isn’t a lot when compared to the price of a Chevy let alone the price of a Tesla.
Personally, I find Handheld Twilight mode to be one of the most useful camera features I’ve seen in recent memory. The freedom to shoot handheld under dim lighting is enormously liberating, opening up lots of photo opportunities that I’d have had to pass on previously. It’s the reason I frequently grab a Sony camera for snapshots when I’m going on a personal outing.
Second was with an old (illegal) CB amp that I was converting to HF, and I touched an unshielded feed inductor of some sort, the aftermath from the RF burn was worse than that time I grabbed the wrong end of an iron with my fingers.
Whether you call it neutral or ground is (I suppose) not important, what is important is that there is no distinction between neutral and ground until you are at the customer’s meter.
The printer does not print onto the heater. The heater is normally under the bed which can be a variety of materials. I use polycarbonate, a lot of people use glass, I think most printers come with aluminium with Kapton tape on top. The heater for the bed is usually safely tucked away where you would need to be somewhat of a contortionist to actually touch it.
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