These were obviously mistakes. I would never intentionally come into contact with HT from the anode cap.
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If I was working on your bedroom lighting and an outlet in your basement stops working a few days later, that’s just a coincidence. I’ll come back for the second project, but don’t expect me to do it for free because I “broke” it the last time. If I wasn’t working with that circuit, this new problem is unrelated.
Power Supply Plan 24 Volts 300Watt heatpad or higher : Saferhttps://hackaday.io/project/8680-power-supply-plan-24-volts-300watt-heatpad
Operating temperatures are another consideration. Assume the ambient operating temperature for this application ranged from 0 to +70°C. This would be within the MOVâs -40 to +85°C rating, and there would be no requirement for derating of surge current or energy across this temperature range.Taking high-line tolerance into account, a 275-V ac-rated MOV may be chosen for this example. Using a 2-hp, single-phase, medium-sized motor, the MOVâs required surge-current rating would be determined by the peak current induced at the motor supply. Assuming a service location for the motor and a line impedance of 2 Ω, it was determined that a 3-kA lightning surge was possible. In this case, one datasheet indicates a maximum clamping voltage of 3 kA at 900 V, which is below the 918-V suggested stator-winding withstand capability. If the motorâs operational life were estimated to be 20 years and specified as being able to withstand 80 lightning transients during term of service, the datasheet pulse-rating curves would verify a rating of 100+ surges.
When I was doing rehab work on old Chicago apartments I would often find electric wires run through abandoned gas lighting pipes, ready made conduit going to where the old gas light fixtures were, not exactly code and very confusing, especially since there were “live” gas pipes mixed up in the walls and ceilings with the ones carrying Mr. 120!
My grandmother had a set of glass topped buffet serving tables where the glass top had a foil element sandwiched between the glass layers. They plugged right into the wall. No components other than the heating element, line cord, and a neon bulb to remind you it was plugged in. The element terminated with a couple of fused in copper rods threaded to take nuts. Got too hot to comfortably touch, but warm enough to keep your food hot. It should be within the capabilities of a glass/ceramics hobbiest with a kiln to sandwich a foil element between two pieces of glass and fuse the sandwich together.
On Demand Refrigerant Safety Classes A2L and A3 have a very low GWP, making them a strong, long-term solution for many HVACR applications. However, these refrigerants are classified as mildly flammable and highly flammable respectively. This flammability class raises safety and compliance concerns. This webinar will help you understand these classes, along with the opportunities these refrigerants can offer.
Pedantic FWIW: Afghanistan and North Korea and some banana nations use 110V. USA uses 120V/240V. Japan is the oddball, using 100V. Annoying because you can’t draw more than 1 kilowatt from a socket there (kettle, hair dryer, space heater…). And having lived with the three voltages (100V, 120V, 240V) on four continents, I’ll happily take the 120V supply instead of the 240V.
The importance of inspection isn’t so much the wires popping off as heating up. Any signs of discoloration of the crimp terminals or wires, or any fog or smoke and you should disconnect *everything* immediately and stop using it until or unless it is repaired and ALL heat damaged components replaced and THROWN AWAY.
Let us never forget this Darwinian hero. http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xfyyii_man-electrocuted-on-the-train-india_news
That said, why not use 12v halogens (or even mains voltage halogens) to provide the heat? They are ~99% efficient at that, cheap, plentiful, universally available…
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