But they’d have to be in the same phase for it to work. If they’re in opposing phase, they’ll just push and pull against each other.
Just took a few seconds? the speed of light must be a bit slower in whatever dimension you’re living in.
It’s probably worth at this point explaining for a minute how earthing works with respect to mains power. You will have a local earth connection at your house, and your utility company will connect the neutral line to an earth at the substation to ensure that line voltages are not induced at a higher voltage with respect to their surroundings than the voltage they are supposed to carry. There may be 110V or 230V between the live and the neutral depending where you live, but without that earth connection both of those conductors could end up at thousands of volts higher than their surroundings, for example in a thunderstorm. The earth connection provides a fixed relationship between line voltage and the surroundings, such as the utility poles, trees, your house, and you.
Don’t describe the kind of ceiling fan or light fixture you’re looking for and expect me to find one that fits your vision perfectly. Go to the hardware store and pick up your own items so you can guarantee they’re what you want. Just get in touch with me before you buy it in case it won’t fit correctly. Plus, find out what electricians wish you knew about batteries.
A 25A relay seems perfect for a 22A load. If the relay is really built for 25A and not only marked as one. What use had a maximum rating when you could never really use it?
Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.
The remote has a few buttons and LED for status. The LED reacts differently depending on the pool’s current mode, so connecting there not only gives you control but also allows you to provide some limited status. It isn’t going to let you monitor pump currents or anything exotic, but it is a simple place to gain access. Using the Arduino pulse input function makes it easy to sense if the LED is on, off, or blinking. Another sensor reads the water temperature. The controller makes it available, but it isn’t simple to read, so the project just reads the raw sensor voltage from the existing thermistor and computes the temperature.
Then if one is only looking at getting warm water, then one can also just have the heat pump use ambient indoor temperature to make the warm water. It will efficiently give warm water, but heating the house would be just as efficient as using a large resistor. (But at least the warm water got cheaper. (and it cools down the house during summer if one empties the warm water out doors or down the sink.))
Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.
The key is to reference NEC NFPA 70 Table 310.15(B)(16) to find the ampacity of a conductor and size that conductor according to the MCA listed on the unit label. When this is done, the conductor will be properly sized according to the NEC.
people remember “the good old days” and they forget all about the horrible accidents and fires and massive death that came from ignoring fire regulations
The AVIC-W8400NEX flagship has a 7-inch capacitive touchscreen, while the AVIC-W6400NEX has a 6.2-inch capacitive touchscreen, and the AVH-W4400NEX has a 7-inch display with resistive touch capabilities. The receivers support both Google Assistant and Siri and can operate wirelessly via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or wired through a Lightning connection. Additionally, you can control your smart home devices through the units, including things like a garage door, locks, or lights.
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