No, it’s far more likely a combination of the strength of your flexor muscles (biceps) being stronger than your extensors (triceps), a bit of spinal reflex (sudden stretch of pain signal = withdraw limb) and observer bias; you’ve probably seen people electrocuted with 120v AC more often than 120v DC.
Your advice / admonition overlooks the reasonable likelihood that the part wasn’t *really* rated for what it *claimed* to be rated for, nor was it constructed in a manner to keep it safe in the event of an actual failure– as in the article’s example. Such that even if he were a licensed and well-experienced “electrician” (or anything else), it STILL would (could) have failed and caused the same problem. So what you’re saying IS good advice in a general way, but only partially relevant to the actual incident from the article, IMO of course! 
I’m currently looking into buying some Class 2 insulating gloves for our hackerspace, for starters. Better safe than crisp…
I’ve been looking for a capacitor for microwaves. I have this idea that I could use it for warming my coffee on the beach.
Experts suggest buying an EVSE that can produce at least 30 amps of power. Generally speaking this type of unit would be able to add around 30 miles of operating range to a given battery pack per hour. Some EVs can get along with fewer amps, but buying more capability than you may need today makes the installation “future proof” should you eventually trade in the vehicle for a model that can handle the added capacity. However, if you’re planning on using a 30-amp unit you may need to upgrade the line’s circuit breaker to one that’s rated for at least 40 amps.
Well your musle will clench with AC as well. That’s why friend mine is still among the living. He was an oilfield pumper after n over night thunderstorm there was much equip down because of blown fuses and tripped motor over load protection devices my fried got an a hurry and got careless He reached int a motor control box and grab a fuse in each hand to pull them out. Because of other damage in the box they where energized. The jolt threw him on his ass because his hands clenched surround the fuses the act of throwing him back disconnect him from the electric power as the fuses pulled out out of their holders. I tech school one of the other student got bit by HV inside a TV and it threw his hand way. He wasn’t hurt by the electrical shock, but we kept an an eye him for a while because he looked like he could enter a state of physical shock.
This certainly looks like one of the more impressive ARM-powered Windows 10 laptops we’ve seen so far. The first few devices ran on the same Snapdragon 835 chip found in Android smartphones from last year, and they showed early promise with some issues that still needed work.
If I was working on your bedroom lighting and an outlet in your basement stops working a few days later, that’s just a coincidence. I’ll come back for the second project, but don’t expect me to do it for free because I “broke” it the last time. If I wasn’t working with that circuit, this new problem is unrelated.
About 20yr ago I changed the big noisy (*) contactor for the 400V/3 phase 1kW pool pump to a 4 pole relay similar to this one: https://www.reichelt.at/Industrierelais/FIN-55-34-8-230V/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=13324&GROUPID=7622&artnr=FIN+55.34.8+230V&trstct=pol_4 because of the noise it made. It makes small sparks at the contacts, but is switching every day in summer since 20yrs. If there is no cleaning work to do, the pump is only switched one cycle per day by a timer. So, maybe 2000 or 3000 switching cycles is not much for a relay, but it is sufficient. And even if it would burn out now, it had a 20yr lifetime. *) the loud “clonk” when it pulled in and sometimes humming from the coil. That disturbed my father sleeping in a near room. We do not need remote control, it just has to work.
The morals of the story: buy quality components and test them if possible; when in doubt, derate; and make sure a flaming component can’t light anything else on fire. And you’ll want to review the basics of fire protection while you’re at it.
As an example, I went to my mom’s place in the mountains, plugged in my Clarity PHEV using a 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord to an outdoor outlet that looked corroded. After an hour I checked the plug and it was hot of course, so I stopped charging, cleaned the outlet thoroughly, plugged it back in and it was cool (or just slightly warm) to the touch along the entire cord and outlet through the charging process. Using the extension cord is dangerous as there is no thermal sensor in the extension cord at the outlet or could be damaged internally. The corroded outlet was dangerous (and could have very likely melted out had I not checked it). The cord can get easily damage.
Actually what they WOULD question is why you’d throw a big power brick on something if you’re just doing resistance heating. Bizarre…
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