At the time I tried to get the regulatory authority in NSW to do something about it. Zero interest. Useless idiots.
Many thermostats are battery-operated, and once they power down so will your air conditioner or heater. Check that your thermostat is fully operational and the connections to the wall are good.
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Gasoline-powered portable generators, which cost from about $400 to $1,500, based on their output and features, are not only readily available at home-improvement stores, they’re easy to use. “If you can operate a lawn mower, you can operate a generator,” says Art Aiello, spokesman for Generac, one of the largest manufacturers of portable generators. “In winter, it doesn’t take a lot of snow or ice to bring down a power line in certain neighborhoods. If you have the ability to pull it out, add fuel and attach extension cords, a portable is a sound solution.”
Later while an engineering student I worked in a factory where they built video projection systems with a 30kV final anode voltage
The third apartment I ever rented had ungrounded two-prong outlets in the kitchen, and rather than do the old 3-prong-adapter route for the microwave (the good ones with a green wire to the center screw), I said, “let’s replace the outlet,” I switched the breaker, verified that there was no power with a lamp, and started disassembly…. and the screwdriver arced, Most likely the breaker was on the neutral instead of the hot or something stupid like that. I did one of those “cat with octopus on his face” nope nope nopes, and *carefully* reassembled everything and fetched the darn 3-prong adapter.
There is no mention of what powers the module here, and I suspect it is a regular 5V, isolated SMPS. @RobHeffo suggests transformerless power supply, but that is not a good idea, for the current drawn by the ESP the capacitor will be too big. There are alternatives, like this guy, LNK306 : http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf . It is not isolated, but the thing is probably the best cost option for such a device.
Step 3: Use the pulse-rating curves (Fig. 2) in the same datasheet to determine pulse capabilities relative to the 40 pulses at the 1000-A requirement.
I’ve not tried to account for phase differences (that is, power factor). It’s very naive. I measure the current via a CT and compute RMS across a whole cycle, then I find the peak voltage and do the math.
The most useful thing I found in this article is that you can rotate those screw connectors at a 45 and they drop in 0.1 inch breadboard holes.
The point is it can be done safely and cheaply and is proven to be safe; so we can’t work out why everyone was so dubious.
You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.
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