Heavy Lift Electromagnet from Microwave Oven Transformers | Circuit Breaker Parts

At the time I tried to get the regulatory authority in NSW to do something about it. Zero interest. Useless idiots.

Many thermostats are battery-operated, and once they power down so will your air conditioner or heater. Check that your thermostat is fully operational and the connections to the wall are good.

Copyright © 2018 WTWH Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of WTWH Media. Site Map | Privacy Policy | RSS

Gasoline-powered portable generators, which cost from about $400 to $1,500, based on their output and features, are not only readily available at home-improvement stores, they’re easy to use. “If you can operate a lawn mower, you can operate a generator,” says Art Aiello, spokesman for Generac, one of the largest manufacturers of portable generators. “In winter, it doesn’t take a lot of snow or ice to bring down a power line in certain neighborhoods. If you have the ability to pull it out, add fuel and attach extension cords, a portable is a sound solution.”

Later while an engineering student I worked in a factory where they built video projection systems with a 30kV final anode voltage

The third apartment I ever rented had ungrounded two-prong outlets in the kitchen, and rather than do the old 3-prong-adapter route for the microwave (the good ones with a green wire to the center screw), I said, “let’s replace the outlet,” I switched the breaker, verified that there was no power with a lamp, and started disassembly…. and the screwdriver arced, Most likely the breaker was on the neutral instead of the hot or something stupid like that. I did one of those “cat with octopus on his face” nope nope nopes, and *carefully* reassembled everything and fetched the darn 3-prong adapter.

There is no mention of what powers the module here, and I suspect it is a regular 5V, isolated SMPS. @RobHeffo suggests transformerless power supply, but that is not a good idea, for the current drawn by the ESP the capacitor will be too big. There are alternatives, like this guy, LNK306 : http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf . It is not isolated, but the thing is probably the best cost option for such a device.

Step 3: Use the pulse-rating curves (Fig. 2) in the same datasheet to determine pulse capabilities relative to the 40 pulses at the 1000-A requirement.

I’ve not tried to account for phase differences (that is, power factor). It’s very naive. I measure the current via a CT and compute RMS across a whole cycle, then I find the peak voltage and do the math.

The most useful thing I found in this article is that you can rotate those screw connectors at a 45 and they drop in 0.1 inch breadboard holes.

The point is it can be done safely and cheaply and is proven to be safe; so we can’t work out why everyone was so dubious.

You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.