Heavy Lift Electromagnet from Microwave Oven Transformers | Circuit Breaker Parts

The Sony A33 adopts a newly developed phase-detection autofocus sensor and lens module with 15 points, of which three are cross-type. AF points can be selected automatically or manually, and both predictive control (tracking) and face detection are included, although the cameras can only focus on detected faces if they fall under a phase detection point. Autofocus working range is -1 EV to +18 EV (at ISO 100 equivalent), and there’s no dedicated AF assist lamp, with the A33 relying on low-power bursts of internal flash or an external strobe’s assist lamp for focusing in low light.

Because a failure of the sort I have described will not be current limited. You’ll likely start a fire.

A properly wired, properly functioning dimmer switch can get hot to the touch. I’ve found that a 65-degree temperature rise is normal for a maxed-out dimmer. If the ambient temperature is 71 degrees and a dimmer switch is at 136 degrees, I’d be concerned, but I wouldn’t report the temperature as a problem. I would, however, take an extra minute or two to figure out how many watts the dimmer is rated for. I’d then make sure there wasn’t too much being controlled by the dimmer.

Driving the Niro PHEV is a better experience than the standard Niro — when I drove that hybrid, there were a few stumbles with the dual-clutch transmission when cold. It seems the larger, more powerful battery and motor combo smooth out the rough edges of this transmission. The greater electric torque makes getting off the line brisk, almost fun.

The ones I’m talking about, they’re ubitquitous, supermarkets have them, don’t do dimming, just on/off. They seem to use a relay, from the clicking they make. I don’t think this one does dimming either right?

We teach our employees never to trust anyone concerning lock-out tag-out. Everyone has their own personal lock, and most power sources can accommodate multiple locks. Fortunately you just enjoyed an unusual sensation,

This is a heater that’s going to be near fingers, or elbows, and is completely accessible to them, completely easy to touch. One day, when he’s distracted thinking about something else (not rare), he’ll end up touching the heater and getting a shock.

FR4 is actually quite a good insulator. It’s only real failure is when you have impurities on the surface of the PCB in very high humidity conditions. The impurities will cause the surface tension of the water molecules in air to lower and as this happens the water will condense onto the PCB. The water on the PCB reduces the effective creepage clearance and can cause a flash over or arc.

I flashed Tasmota firmware onto the Sonoff, and configured GPIO2 as a counter, and I now have the whole setup reporting to Node Red, which switches the pumps on and off on schedule, or as desired. I’m quite chuffed with the result, although now I need to learn a lot more about how Node Red works!

my first “real” job was in a video game arcade back in the 80’s my boss was a really cheap prick that used to buy asian cocktail machines that were “native” 110V, with a 240V to 110V step down transformer wedged in where it would fit, my second day I was fishing out a 20 cent coin that had missed the coin box, I got “zapped” hard enough to blow my finger nail in half and stop my heart.

For the person who jumps up and says “coatings insulate the water from the trace”, well no it doesn’t, we are talking about AC voltages and water that has formed over a large trace (even insulated) forms a capacitor that will conduct AC even when you have a DC insulation. Even if it did you then still have the exposed solder pads.

Everything else on the datasheet are useless observations only true under test conditions. A few really awesome datasheets give junction to ambient, which is a blessing if you don’t need a heatsink.