My first thought was that the terminals were over torqued rotating the blocks, stretching the pins, and tearing the pads.
two suggestions… 1. bridge it and use as a 230v rectified/ cleaned up DC as per your choice 2. as with pop up toasters and hairdriers, use convection and radiation instead of conduction. use a hot coil and duct the hot air for circulation under the bed.
Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.
Xiaomi claims a screen-to-body ratio of 93.4 percent, and has cut down on the “chin” at the bottom of the display by nearly 4.5 millimeters compared to the Mi Mix 2S.
If I scan a ceiling and I find a cold spot that doesn’t make any sense, I dig into it. Maybe it’s a plumbing leak from above, or maybe it’s just a cold water line that’s touching the ceiling. That’s where a moisture meter comes in handy. Ok, I’m getting sidetracked. Let’s discuss some electrical examples.
I heard from an instructor that some guys from the national power company use full PPE when switching on/off old main fuses in domestic installations (230V, 15 to maybe 60A). These things are fully plastic and can be operated by everyone, so no PPE needed, but it seems like they explode sometimes – maybe because of the dust you mentionned.
That wouldn’t make things any safer, per se. It would give you an additional diagnostic datapoint as to which of the two 120V inputs has the reversal. But the primary symptom of a hot-neutral reversal is the angry buzz from the third relay combined with the third light not coming on.
Fast AF. Phase-detect AF doesn’t hunt like contrast-detect, making for fast, smooth AF during movies. (Click to download 4.9MB MP4 file.)
This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.
So a 20 amp breaker is designed to take the load shift on startup. A 15 amp breaker will carry the nominal load, but that surge on startup will kick it every time. In the days before switching supplies the input voltage would vary from 108 to 115VAC where I did work. This occasionally caused breaker trips on the unprepared circuit. I learned to spec high enough to minimize that issue and keep a safety factor in play.
What we can say for now is that the new Corolla has taken a giant step forward, and that in terms of cabin quality and refinement, comfort and dynamic capability it is up there fighting among the very best. Likewise, you would hope, Toyota’s famed reputations for both reliability and customer service should continue to add credence for buying one.
AC does make you clench. I was unable to let go of some AC transformer wires once for about 10 seconds before I shook free.
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