Here’s What You Need To Charge Your Electric Car At Home | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Clearing the work space and moving any furniture before I arrive means I can get in and out faster, so I can charge you for less of my time.

It is often a surprise to see how other people react to mains electricity when they encounter it in a piece of equipment. As engineers who have dealt with it both personally and professionally for many years it is easy to forget that not everyone has had that experience. On one hand we wince at those who dive in with no fear of the consequences, on the other we are constantly surprised at the number of people who treat any item with more than a few volts in it as though it was contaminated with radioactive anthrax and are scared to even think about opening it up.

With the introduction of the RGC..32, Carlo Gavazzi now offers a solution for switching up to 37 AAC at 40°C that fits in the 17.8mm wide platform with a depth of 103mm. The RGC..32 is offered both with screw, as well as box clamp output terminals. The version with box clamps is rated for up to 37AAC @ Ta 40°C. This higher current rating on the 17.8mm compact platform is achieved through the utilization of a higher rated power chip that has an I²t of 18000 A²s. Due to this high I²t specification, the RGC..32 can be protected against short circuits by B curve Miniature Circuit Breakers, in applications where the UL508 SCCR rating is not required.

Farewell, then, Toyota Auris, welcome back Toyota Corolla. Goodbye countless marketing millions spent establishing a new name and fresh reputation, hello old friend. Out with the old and in with the older, although it is surely not just me pondering why the passing 13 years have replaced recollections of the dull but worthy family hatch with a nostalgic fondness, lightly sizzled by memories of victorious Castrol-sponsored world rally cars?

Of course, after buying a 1000W PSU, I kept getting intermittent shutdowns and freezes after 30-60 minutes of gameplay or CAD work, despite remaining perfectly stable while mining for days at a time. The GTX670 has no backplate and last year a fan screw vibrated loose and fell on top of it while everything was running. The motherboard was toast so I ungraded it and the CPU (AMD FX9590), but the GTX670 itself seemed okay. Apparently not.

The first was working with a bench buddy on a military SSB Shortwave amp. My bench buddy assured me he had powered the system down and unplugged everything necessary, and I trusted him. I reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plate voltage supply on the amp tube, and got hit by 26kv DC. Shouted and was teleported backwards about 3 feet, but no damage done (except a small melted bit on the end of the pliers).

Two inputs for the beefy converter are supplied from outlets not just on separate circuits, but on two circuits whose hot lines are 180 degrees out of phase. That means identifying where there are two plugs, not protected by GFCI outlets or breakers, which are on two separate hot lines of split phase power. To protect the user, [Nick] designed in a set of relays which kill the circuit when one of the two supplies is unplugged. A system that didn’t have these protections would have mains voltage on the prongs of the disconnected plug.

While I found enough to quibble about to justify my role as a reviewer, I also found the Sony A55 and A33 to be uniquely compelling cameras. The most telling point was how hard I found it going back to an "ordinary" SLR after just a day of shooting with the A55. I’ve long been an avowed EVF-hater, but the viewfinder display on the Sony A55 is good enough that I found myself sorely missing it when I returned to shooting with a conventional sub-frame SLR with a typically small optical viewfinder. The Sony A55′s shooting speed matches that of professional models costing literally thousands of dollars more thanks to the unique pellicle mirror design, and its uniquely Sony features (Handheld Twilight/Multi-Frame NR and Sweep Panorama modes in particular) take the A55 places no other SLR has gone before. I was also pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the Sony A55′s grip was, given the tiny body size. I still prefer having more to wrap my fingers around, but this is as good a grip as I’ve seen on an SLR body this compact to date. While its primary target clearly is not the entry-level shooter, the Sony A55′s Auto+ mode takes it closer to true "just push the button" simplicity in auto mode than any other camera we’re aware of, enabling novice-level users to enjoy the multi-shot and other Scene modes without having to worry about which to use when. At the other end of the spectrum, for the enthusiast with time to become acquainted its capabilities and familiar with its quirks, the Sony A55 expands the realm of amateur photography further than any SLR to date. In the A55 and A33, Sony has used outside-the-box thinking to deliver a uniquely capable, functional, and well-designed SLR. Hot on the heels of their category-redefining NEX-3 and NEX-5, Sony’s engineers have now likewise redefined what consumers can expect from an SLR.

Zaprodk bitches about the absence of a fuse — which is clearly explained to be located on a separate power entry board.

Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)

How are you implementing the power calculations, out of curiosity? (I have designed a couple of AC power meters before, so it’s somewhat of an interest of mine)

And because what you need is power and not current, and because of voltage drop in your wiring, the current is slightly more than twice. If you have a load of 1200 Watts, so 10 A in 120VAC and 5 A in 240 VAC. With wire around 8 ohms/km (roughly wire of 2.5mm² section or 14 AWG), you get a voltage drop of 8 Volts in one case, 4 Volts in the other. So 6.67% of your main voltage vs. 1.67% of your main voltage. Already 5% of efficiency loss in your system… But it’s even worst because in this case you don’t get 1200 Watts at your load, only 1120 Watts ((120-8) * 10) and 1180 Watts ((240-4) * 5) To get your 1200 Watts at your charge, you need 10.77 Amps and 5.08 Amps. So you get a overall efficiency of 92.8 % at 120 VAC (1200 / (10.77*120)) and 98.3 % at 240 VAC. (5.5% of efficiency difference).