But my toaster uses heating elements contacted to 120 VAC, and so no barriers against ignorant ding stupid things. I agree the lower voltage is use because of the illusion of safet is probably why they use the lower voltages. Only an illusion to those who haven had the opportunity to study electricity or had made the effort to study it.
I probably ought to be dead, or have some scars at least, but apparently I’m a very resistant person.
Might be safer your way, since you’re transforming down, then back up again. Using a microwave oven transformer means horribly high voltages in the middle of the thing, and should, by chance, some insulation fail, or a bit of an arc, or whatever…
So here follows the first in a series on how to approach electronic devices containing high voltages, and live to tell the tale. By “high voltages” we mean anything up to mains voltages, and those directly derived from them such as the few hundred volts rectified DC you’ll find in a switch-mode PSU. For multi-kilovolt EHT you’ll have to wait for another article, because that is an entire subject in itself. We’ll mention these higher voltages in passing, but their detail is best left for a Hackaday colleague with more pertinent experience.
It should be possible. I used to have a heated tray for keeping my home brew beer and wine warm while fermenting. It was probably only about 30 degrees C but mains voltage.
The time-multiplexed full-color RGB pixel technology generally worked well to deliver very high resolution with no gaps at all between the pixels. The only place I was aware of the EVF pixels were in diagonal strokes of letters on the various VF info readouts, or on the electronic level display, when the indicator lines were tilted. I never saw pixel jaggies when looking at the subjects I was shooting, even in the case of sharp high-contrast edges.
Keep in mind that for a circuit to have a rating above 60°C (140°F), the wire as well as the breaker, disconnect lugs, and connection lugs in the equipment must all be rated at a temperature at or above the temperature rating being used. If any portion of the circuit utilizes non-metallic (NM) cabling — often known by the trade name Romex® — it must be rated at 60°C (140°F) according to article 334.80 of the NEC.
On the Sony A33 and A55, the EVF can serve as both shooting and playback display. As mentioned earlier, the ability to check your shots and make camera settings without taking your eye from the eyepiece leads to a slightly different and more efficient shooting style; one that encourages you to learn the camera by feel and memory, rather than looking at the controls as you press them. I’ve only had a few days with the camera as of this writing, but can see that greater familiarity will produce a very efficient shooting style.
Operating temperatures are another consideration. Assume the ambient operating temperature for this application ranged from 0 to +70°C. This would be within the MOVâs -40 to +85°C rating, and there would be no requirement for derating of surge current or energy across this temperature range.Taking high-line tolerance into account, a 275-V ac-rated MOV may be chosen for this example. Using a 2-hp, single-phase, medium-sized motor, the MOVâs required surge-current rating would be determined by the peak current induced at the motor supply. Assuming a service location for the motor and a line impedance of 2 Ω, it was determined that a 3-kA lightning surge was possible. In this case, one datasheet indicates a maximum clamping voltage of 3 kA at 900 V, which is below the 918-V suggested stator-winding withstand capability. If the motorâs operational life were estimated to be 20 years and specified as being able to withstand 80 lightning transients during term of service, the datasheet pulse-rating curves would verify a rating of 100+ surges.
The run and start capacitors provide the phase shift for starting torque because their capacitances add up when wired in parallel. In fact, both capacitors are wired in series with the start winding and in parallel with the run winding.
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Heater might be pulling 22 A when hot, but on power up … likely much more. Think about incandescent lightbulb or electric motor, for example.
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