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Here’s What You Need To Charge Your Electric Car At Home | 220v Contactor Relay

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Dumb question but in wiring up a bench setup as described – in what order should the isolation transformer, RCD and isolator switch be connected up. RCD on mains side of transformer along with isolator? Double pole isolator for live and neutral? Maybe add a suggested circuit diagram to the excellent article and improve readership safety even more.

For instance, when I test a car that specifically touts efficiency, I always plan a relatively rigorous regimen of fuel economy measurements, including filling and refilling the tank at the same pump, and maintaining a consistent driving style. But then a school bus is late and I have to rush to the office, keeping me from the fuel pump before the car goes away — and keeping my foot to the floor a bit more than ideal. Or a charging plug falls out of the wall socket you’ve been meaning to replace for a decade.

One aspect of ac motor protection is the surge-withstand capability of the motor itself. Paragraph 20.36.4 of the NEMA motor generator standard MG-1 defines a unit value of surge as:   u × VL-L (or 0.816 × VL-L) where VL-L is the line-to-line voltage of the ac power system.

#PreferLinux mentioned switching off at the mains socket. Do that, but still test; that saved me once when the switch was faulty. Yes, that socket was replaced, pronto!

ZL95

I have never seem a ‘cooked’ TRIAC or a TRIAC that is not working properly unless it has exploded.

You can get the domestic radio-controlled switchers, 15 UK Pounds for a set of 3 including remote. Think it’s standard 433MHz. Admittedly not Wifi but a little hub to convert the two wouldn’t be much problem. The point being all the nasty stuff’s pre-manufactured and you don’t even have to touch it once it’s plugged in. A stray radio wave’s much less likely to burn your house down, and an insurer can’t blame you for using units you bought from a reputable store. Though check for the relevant safety markings just to be sure.

And you’d need to think about seperation (diodes to seperate the two paths?) if you wanted to read a local button press verses a node press, or would you be better off just doing that in software. Detecting a button press and checking to see if the node had recently issued one itself.

The Sony Alpha A33 accepts both Memory Stick Pro Duo / Pro-HG Duo, and SD / SDHC / SDXC media, and is powered by an InfoLithium battery pack.

ZL95

Agreed, this is a house fire waiting to happen and your insurance co. won’t give you a cent if an investigation points to this homecooked thing as the firestarter. There are numerous commercial alternatives which are small enough to fit in a junction box _and_ are UL/FCC/CE approved. Granted, they aren’t as cheap as the ESP module and the triac described here, but in the end, most cheap alternatives to switching powerful currents turn out to be very expensive after all.

I haven’t seen you around the traps here before and you have put in a good effort so welcome aboard.

The ones I’m talking about, they’re ubitquitous, supermarkets have them, don’t do dimming, just on/off. They seem to use a relay, from the clicking they make. I don’t think this one does dimming either right?

Your writing is appreciated. It’s good to learn something more than just the U.S. english terminology for things. Also makes for a better laugh (sometimes) at some of the anecdotes written in the comments that one reads in so many places online.


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