Agreed. I work in electronics as a profession. High voltage electronics no less. Industrial size high voltage power supplies. Everything about them up to maintaining them down to component level. The comments here from people are scaring me shitless from the lack of knowledge to the over the top over complication of the problem.
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Tilt level. The Sony A33 includes a dual-axis level gauge, which helps ensure level horizons and prevent converging verticals in photos. The level gauge can be shown on either the electronic viewfinder or the rear-panel LCD, but only alongside the most basic information overlay — you can’t combine the detailed display overlays with the level gauge. A clever way around it, though, is to set one viewer to the level gauge, and the other to a more informative display, since by default you can set the display modes independently. There’s no way for the user to recalibrate the gauge, if they find the factory default to be inaccurate. The gauge is displayed in a style reminiscent of an aircraft attitude indicator, but with a separation of the roll and pitch indicators. When the camera is perfectly level, the pitch indicators and markings at the end of the roll indicator are illuminated in green.
I am going to try a rheostat on the input voltage to see if I can drop the rectifier output voltage to around 30v. Right now it works but will pop a15A wall circuit breaker after 15-20 seconds. But it is a super strong magnet. Limiting the current is the key I believe. More later
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China needs to sort it’s shit out. Eventually, they might, then that’ll be OK. They may evolve the same way the West did til their business standards are reputable. Of course, that all happened to the West around the 19th and 20th Centuries. Since then, in the West, corruption has increased, and political bodies are bought and paid for by gigantic mega-corps, seeking monopolism and every other bent tactic they can try, for an eternally increasing share price.
This is called Level 1 charging, and assuming you already have basic electric service in your garage, it’s the cheapest way to go. Unfortunately, it’s also the slowest. Depending on the vehicle and its battery capacity, it can take anywhere from eight to nearly 24 hours to bring its power cells up to a full charge.
The camera can’t always perfectly compensate for how you move the camera during the panorama, nor for extreme perspective shifts, so you’ll sometimes see "stitch errors" in the assembled shots. The slight "stuttering" above left in a shot from the Sony A55 is typical of the mild errors that sometimes occur: Pretty unobtrusive, unless you really zoom in to pixel-peep. More dramatic errors like the crop from an A560 panorama seen above right were fairly rare in my experience. This is a great feature for dramatic vacation snapshots, but if you’re making panoramas professionally, you’ll still want to build them manually from separate shots.
As with basically every other high-end Android phone this year, the Mi Mix 3 has a Snapdragon 845 processor, but breaks new memory grounds by including up to 10GB of RAM. Xiaomi is also bundling the phone with a 10W wireless charger. A 5G version is set for release in Europe early next year.
When I’m doing electrical work, I *always* short the conductors to verify no power (after flipping the breaker and testing with a meter). Better safe than sorry.
two suggestions… 1. bridge it and use as a 230v rectified/ cleaned up DC as per your choice 2. as with pop up toasters and hairdriers, use convection and radiation instead of conduction. use a hot coil and duct the hot air for circulation under the bed.
What about converting down to 12-24v AC for the bed with a ZVC switch going to the controller? It seems that running it off DC is wasteful but mains is relatively risky.
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