Hot circuit breakers and dimmer switches | Lrd12 Overload Relay

Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.

These ratings on the data tag tell us exactly what minimum ampacity the circuit must be capable of carrying as well as the maximum size the circuit breaker or fuse may be able to protect the circuit against in an overcurrent condition.

Stripping wire with my teeth (my front teeth have a perfect gap at the bottom for it, I could probably specify them in AWG) to fit the socket onto a phone extension cable. While rather stupidly forgetting I’d plugged the damn thing in downstairs. Yowch! Fortunately it wasn’t ringing. As a mistake, it was educational.

Agreed. I don’t see us revisiting the war of the currents. Interties between independent grids make sense, but there’s a reason that AC won, and I don’t think time and advancing technology has significantly changed that.

Just reach for the “Flame Wrench” while working on a press, in a corrugated box plant. Within the next two minutes, you’ll know how many fire extinguishers are in that building. Box dust and the old, grease based, Letterpress ink was always a major concern when you were doing the repairs and needed to use a grinder, torch or welder, etc..

I think the issue is more that 8A might be fine for a light but embedding it where another future operator will reasonably assume it is rated at 15A is not fine.

I think a lot of the negativity is par for the course on Hackaday when dealing with HV (or other areas with safety concerns) projects. I got my share of the same thing with my “Quick 220 clone” project. Such projects should garner a healthy dose of paranoia, but I think where it goes wrong is when that converts into unfriendly skepticism – that somehow it’s impossible for an amateur working alone to build something that would pass muster with UL or CE.

#PreferLinux mentioned switching off at the mains socket. Do that, but still test; that saved me once when the switch was faulty. Yes, that socket was replaced, pronto!

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Would that we solved with two opto’s per button, one to read and one to press ? Ignoring the LED feature entirely. Because you cannot assign a pin to be both input and output.

When finished “fixing” things, you want to make sure, your device is still safe to the user. For this you need these testers.

Comparable relay product datasheets from Omron suggest that without appropriate heatsinking, the current limit should be in the range of 4A to 7A.