How Intel’s 9th Gen chips show the way forward after Moore’s Law | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

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I can only think of a single instance in the last six months where the HPWC higher charge rate would have made a difference for us, and even then it would have simply made leaving for a long trip slightly more comfortable.

Grip comfort/security is greatly aided by the deeply sculpted thumbrest on the camera’s back. Combined with the textured rubber used over the whole right half of the body, it provides a very secure gripping point for my thumb, and does a lot to make up for the small size of the front grip. The rubber coating also contributes to a feel of solid build quality, by damping the body vibrations that often make small and light cameras feel tinny or cheap.

The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other. Residential power in the US is single phase, sometimes called split phase because they’re both 120V relative to the center tapped neutral.

I don’t think we would save that much money by swapping the heater to a mains powered. You would need something that is better insulated, and made of other materials. I highly doubt it would be possible to make a PCB with high enough resistance to work at 230V. That needs to be better insulated, more material, higher cost. Then you need to change the driver from a simple MOSFET to something isolated. Based on ebay prices of the kinds of supplies used, i would say there is a $10 saved by using a smaller power one. This is easy to see disappearing in better insulation and more complex driver.

The Sony Alpha A33 lacks one feature found in the A55V (the only version of the A55 that’s sold in the US market) — a built-in GPS receiver. It’s still possible to geotag images and movies from the A33, but doing so will rely on an external GPS logging device and PC software that can backtrack to calculate the location at which images and movies were shot — not nearly as seamless a solution as the A55V’s ability to geotag images and movies straight out of the box.

It’s not that simple according to National Electrical Code (NEC) NFPA 70 for several reasons. Here are some additional factors to be considered:

All of this, if you suppose that you are taking a full hand of cable. Got shocked a few times with AC (and DC as well) and since I was just thouching, not handling, I had no trouble to get away with it (just swearing A LOT and throwing my screwdriver through the room).

Being in the controller business I’ve been presented more than one friend’s design with insufficient cooling. One friend even mounted his SSR to a decent heat sink then mounted the entire assembly inside his housing with no air circulation. His response was “it will work” and he’s had two SSRs fail that I know of. At least in his case, the steel housing kept the “magic smoke” contained!

Not always, you have to think on a global scope here before saying generalizations! In the UK a lot of houses are on what they call PME or protected multiple earths, where the earth bond goes back to the substation as a extra conductor. If you are in one of these properties and are not aware of it, and have your own ground system or leakage you can end up being lower impedance than the substation ground and grounding out faults in your neighbors properties which are also on the same bond. Where I am in europe, all the houses are individually bonded to their own low impedance earth, and the inspector comes out with a megga tester and tests its impedance before they will sign you off to connect to the public supply. It has to be below 50ohms total from any gnd pin on any socket in the property I remember from my inspection. I laid a load of mesh subfloor before pouring the floor so I had no problems with meeting spec. A nice low impedance earth will make your rcd and protection devices even more sensitive also.

I bought an optically isolated unit that is a “Solid State Relay.” ( SSR)The insides are some kind of zero crossing SCR/TRIAC I’m sure but the key is that the input is a logic signal at a few ma anywhere between 4-30 VDC. This unit is rated to 250VAC at 50 amps. I use it with a foot switch and DC wall wart to turn my welder on and off. It DOES require a beefy heat sink for that kind of power but it hasn’t even broken a sweat (my welder uses around 40 amps give or take.) I would strongly recommend adapting this circuit to take advantage of one of the many available SSR’s out there and let a professionally made and UL certified device handle the mains side. You just drive one of these with the GPIO side here. Of course you can use a much smaller unit for doing the typical 15 Amp light circuits. I actually used such a unit controlled by an Arduino to switch a hot plate (1000 watts) on and off for my flow soldering rig where the Arduino automates the solder temperature profile. I think it is best to marry our “hacks” to these commercial components that have proven performance/certification for our mains. My two cents ‘

Just reach for the “Flame Wrench” while working on a press, in a corrugated box plant. Within the next two minutes, you’ll know how many fire extinguishers are in that building. Box dust and the old, grease based, Letterpress ink was always a major concern when you were doing the repairs and needed to use a grinder, torch or welder, etc..