How Intel’s 9th Gen chips show the way forward after Moore’s Law | Lrd12 Overload Relay

This! I just want to add: >3. Verify that the system is really dead. Use an appropriate tool. Test the tool, test if the system is dead, retest the tool. It should be broken or may have broke while testing. >Use nonflammable clothes. Yes! Synthetic materials melts, sticks to your skin and burns – you don’t want this! >Use electrically protective gloves. and check them before use! Do not work alone and if the second person has no clues about electricity instruct him: -What NOT to touch. -CUT THE CURRENT before trying to help somebody that has been electrocuted. -Where the main breaker is and how to operate it. Have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket (if you catch fire) handy.

Good call, light bulbs and heating elements don’t need perfect smooth precise 12vDC, as long as it’s in the ball park you’re good.

I had a chance to spend a few days with a late prototype of the Sony A55 (equipped with production firmware version 1.0) prior to its release. (Note that the Sony A33 is so similar to the A55, that we’ve only made a few edits to this Field Test to make it work for the A33 review.) After running a couple thousand shots through it (it does have a very fast continuous mode) I found it to be a pretty compelling camera, combining remarkable shooting speed with a host of other capabilities that really set it apart from most of the market. It’s by no means perfect, but unquestionably expands the range of shooting capabilities open to consumers with average pocketbooks. Looking at just how much I found to comment on below underscores for me just how much Sony has done in the last few months. Read on for some of my thoughts on this new class of consumer SLR:

If you know the Wattage of the transformer and the input voltage of the oven then you can calculate the approximate current the primary (thicker wire) can carry. Example: 500W 220V gives 500 / 220 = 2.273 Amps. This is the current the coil is designed to carry, and this current should normally take the core close to saturation without generating too much heat. The coil resistance can be measured and an appropriate DC voltage applied. I suggest a current of around 1.5 times as long as the power is not ON permanently. Regarding the use of both coils, the secondary coil is much finer wire and will require a proportionately higher voltage. Assuming the output voltage to be 2500, then the current required will be 500 / 2500 or 0.2 A. The secondary coil has worse properties for dissipating heat, so I would only allow a 25% over current, but just try it and if it gets too hot to hold, reduce the voltage. Allow 20 minutes for the coil to cool between tests. Putting the coils in series, or in parallel does not make sense because they have such different characteristics: better to find two ovens with the same transformer and use both primary coils or both secondary coils, which can then be connected in series to raise the working voltage or in parallel to keep the voltage down but double the current. As someone has already said above, disconnecting the coil produces a spark, that in the secondary coil will be a very high voltage – use a totally enclosed switch rated at at least 250V 10 A, with a 100 Ohm resistor in series with a 0.1 microfarad capacitor across the coil to reduce the sparking and increase switch contact life.

However, there’s a reason we use 12V and 24V heated beds – they give us, at the very least, the illusion of safety. Therefore, [Makertum] is looking for a few comments from specialists and people who know what they’re doing.

24v 12a is not that much more at 288watts. I’m sure I’m missing something to do with electromagnetism which makes the secondary unnatractive?

Also, when you say “..10A relay will dissipate maximum 2.5W through the 0.1ohm contacts…” also does not seem to be correct: P=R*I^2, so @10A it’s 10W

This makes a lot of sense. There are many rather cheap dimmers that can drive a 500W ‘flood’ lamp, so it’s probably better to modify one of theses, and keep it outside the wall socket…

So the 12 / 24 V designs aren’t an illusion of safety, they are safer if you accidentally short yourself to them

I’m currently looking into buying some Class 2 insulating gloves for our hackerspace, for starters. Better safe than crisp…

The owners manual for the Clipper Creek unit shown in the picture specifically says not to wrap the cord tightly like shown in the picture. If you do the cord WILL get hot internally even when properly wired during a long charge. It needs that open space to vent heat. The cord will stay cool if coiled properly. Whenever people not knowing otherwise coil the public chargers like that I will loosen them up.

Labeling the switches on your circuit board will save me guesswork (and time). Hiring either me or another electrician will make the job easier in the future, so we don’t need to turn every single one off before getting to work. Learn why skipping these other home maintenance tasks could cost you thousands.