If I scan a ceiling and I find a cold spot that doesn’t make any sense, I dig into it. Maybe it’s a plumbing leak from above, or maybe it’s just a cold water line that’s touching the ceiling. That’s where a moisture meter comes in handy. Ok, I’m getting sidetracked. Let’s discuss some electrical examples.
I don’t think you can get multimeters that share the volts and amps socket, since the amps is usually a shunt to the ground terminal, very low-resistance, big and chunky high-wattage resistor. Volts is, ideally, infinite resistance, but not in practice of course.
My grandmother had a set of glass topped buffet serving tables where the glass top had a foil element sandwiched between the glass layers. They plugged right into the wall. No components other than the heating element, line cord, and a neon bulb to remind you it was plugged in. The element terminated with a couple of fused in copper rods threaded to take nuts. Got too hot to comfortably touch, but warm enough to keep your food hot. It should be within the capabilities of a glass/ceramics hobbiest with a kiln to sandwich a foil element between two pieces of glass and fuse the sandwich together.
The standard phrase in our repair shop was “electroplated’… as in …”I took that old CRT out and whoosh…. I damn near electroplated myself into the middle of next week when I touched the bottom of the LOPT”…. electrocution was reserved for politicians… as in “….how the hell could there possibly be enough numpties in this country to electorcute that old hag Thatcher…”
i have 300w 12v silicon heat bed i just use a 700w pc power supply and 70A relay it heats bed over 100 oC in about a minute no problem
Of course a safe mains powered heater is possible, but you need a double insulated cable (which is stiffer and heavier) and a reliable strain relief for it. You have to permanently bond the heater PCB to the glass print bed with silicone. You need a fuse and a thermal cut out (thermal fuse) for fire safety, because the available power in the mains circuit is much higher.
They made me a 110v silicone rubber heat bed with adhesive backing at the size I wanted with 2 integrated thermistors and appropriate cabling for like $60 delivered to my door. Add a 110v relay and you’re good to go. The Eustathios and Herculien builders group have been using these for a while.
Larger motors used in rural settings and light industry may aswell use 400 voltage between phases by triangle connection. 3 phase 16A sockets are almost never seen in apartments, but are usually found from houses that have garage or other workspace with larger machinery. Larger 3 phase sockets are very common in farm setting and light industrial buildings. E.g. our hackerspace has air compressor that is fed by 3x 400V 25A line. It doesn’t even have neutral line, motor is connected to triangle and 24V for control logic is stepped down from 400V with transformer.
It’s a Prius for private buyers. It’s got one of the best drivetrains and most sophisticated chassis in the class, looks ok inside and out, no doubt usual exemplary quality and reliability.
Varistors primarily consist of arrays of zinc-oxide (ZnO) balls, in which the ZnO was altered with small amounts of other metal oxides such as bismuth, cobalt, or manganese. In the MOV manufacturing process, these balls are sintered (fused) into a ceramic semiconductor. This produces a crystalline microstructure that allows these devices to dissipate very high levels of transient energy across their entire bulk. After sintering, the surface is metallized, and leads are attached via soldering.
Don’t describe the kind of ceiling fan or light fixture you’re looking for and expect me to find one that fits your vision perfectly. Go to the hardware store and pick up your own items so you can guarantee they’re what you want. Just get in touch with me before you buy it in case it won’t fit correctly. Plus, find out what electricians wish you knew about batteries.
You are right, of course. I should have used “shock” instead of “electrocution”. English is my secondary language…
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