Most hold about 6 to 10 gallons of fuel, enough to run 8 to 16 hours before needing to be refilled. That means you also need an appropriate place to safely store 25 to 30 gallons of gasoline. You could keep just a few gallons on hand and plan to refuel, but remember that gas stations require electricity to operate their pumps. If your entire community is offline or roads are impassible, you won’t be able to get gas.
Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)
It is not uncommon to see lower than specified rating triacs on these cheap Fotek SSRs. Look up on youtube, it is probably a fake one.
Regular gasoline costs about $3 per gallon where I live, so it’ll cost (26 / 46 * 3) = $1.70 to propel the Niro the next 26 miles after the battery is depleted.
one of my least favorite shocks is a phone ringing. I was fixing a socket one night about 11p and thought ‘no one will call this late’ and didnt bother to disconnect it. got a nice zap from that and the ringing has a nice pulse to it that really gets your jumping.
So China are stuck before capitalism’s stable period, the West are now past that. China might end up passing through it, or skipping it altogether. Actually the West might end up learning a few tricks from them.
I was tasked with doing this last week at work and spent considerable time researching the best/safest way to do it with consumer equipment. As far as I can see the best solution is to use one of the many 433MHz RF controlled power adapters (Watts Clever sell them for as little as $10 each) and use the same record/playback trick used to record TV remote IR signals and play them back with an Arduino. Unfortunately the project requirements changed and I didn’t get to actually implement it but I see no reason why it wouldn’t have worked. Apart from being very cheap (~20 per unit) it keeps the mains voltage completely isolated from everything else, which is particularly important from a liability perspective when you have to deliver the units to an external client.
But at the same time, if one wants a high efficiency power supply, then the manufacturer typically have placed in a rectifier that is technically over specified for the job, as these devices are generally not that expensive, and are an easy way to cut down a few watts overall without adding any substantial extra cost.
No edit, so addendum: glancing at comments below, one thing to note: go take apart a toaster and examine the safeties in place there. That may give you some insight into commercial (safety certified, most likely) implementation of a similar technology in the consumer market.
Actually there are checklists, especially for people working on substations and other really high voltage/high energy stuff. But if a moron decides to skip the checklist it won’t help you any. Checklist are not infallible, not even in aviation.
Five vs Ten amps is a big difference in heating in the power factor correction circuit of his power supply. If you find a data sheet for similar power supplies, they are always 1-3% more efficient on 220Vac and run cooler because of it.
Don’t blame the Chinese for this one! They are more than happy to sell us any quality we want. For example, you are probably reading this on a very well built, Chinese made, smart phone.
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