How To Wire A New Garage For Electric-Car Charging: What You Need To Know | 220v Contactor Relay

Why reinvent what is already on the market? There are heating panels beeing sold as accessory for 3d printers already. I just saw a 300x200mm 200W 230VAC silicone heating pad for around 90$. The vendor (multec.de) however clearly states that the installation has to be done by a certified electrician. I’m pretty shure these pads could be sourced a lot cheaper on other sources too. If you think you can just DIY around with 230VAC, make a mistake and hurt/kill somebody or burn down a house, you will be f”cked for life, because no insurance company will cover you. And if you kill yourself and have a family, well, thats not that great for them either. Keep that in mind. I’d rather use a bed made for 48VDC. Powersupplys are abundant for that voltage (standard for a lot of telecom/industrial equipment), reasonably safe to work with compared to 230VAC, and you still get 4 times lower currents (or more power at same current) compared to a 12V bed.

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Although we bumped into each other on job sites, we had different employers. I knew his family and I wasn’t about to ask them about the details of course.

This is called Level 1 charging, and assuming you already have basic electric service in your garage, it’s the cheapest way to go. Unfortunately, it’s also the slowest. Depending on the vehicle and its battery capacity, it can take anywhere from eight to nearly 24 hours to bring its power cells up to a full charge.

Agreed. I don’t see us revisiting the war of the currents. Interties between independent grids make sense, but there’s a reason that AC won, and I don’t think time and advancing technology has significantly changed that.

Mains powered heated glass plates are common place in catering, same deal as a car back window, the heating wires are on the other side from the “working surface” these things can tolerate touching and even fluid spills, why reinvent the wheel, the solution is already commercially avaliable.

Don’t blame the Chinese for this one! They are more than happy to sell us any quality we want. For example, you are probably reading this on a very well built, Chinese made, smart phone.

Oh, and I have fixed about 15,000 of the old CRT TV’s so while my mistakes can’t ever be called good, they’re not without precedent.

For the sake of simplicity in this example, assume the objective is to select a low-voltage dc disc MOV for the following circuit conditions and requirements:

Prior circuit. The OP says in the thread that he puts 8 foot cords on his so he doesn’t need to use an extension cord. Personally I’d go longer, also I’d keep a common “3-lamp” outlet tester handy.

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The risk / reward ratio just doesn’t seem worth it to me, when it’s so easy to have an intrinsically safe low-voltage one.