How To Wire A New Garage For Electric-Car Charging: What You Need To Know | 220v Contactor Relay

I found the Sony A33 and A55′s AF tracking to be very fast and pretty accurate; almost too fast in some cases: If I let the central AF point wander off the subject for a fraction of a second, focus would quickly shift to the background. Many of the missed-focus shots I took were the result of this problem, versus the camera not being able to track focus quickly enough. Some high-end DSLRs have settings in their autofocus systems to adjust how quickly they respond to momentary loss of the subject. (Either from the AF point drifting off the subject, or for some interfering object passing between the subject and camera.) If Sony were able to add this capability to the A33/55, it could go a long way to reducing the number of missed shots, at least based on my experience.

I forgot to say that 220 volt AC is effectively 310 volts peak, so therefor one could instead use 300 volts DC instead, giving roughly 25% less current to carry in the wires to get the same power in the end.

The main issue would be shock protection. A bare PCB with solder mask probably won’t cut it for UL or CE. If you have vias in the element traces, it will probably be really dodgy. On a commercial product which you can’t (are not supposed to) open and tinker with, there is probably a way to do this easily. For a DIY printer, not so much.

The importance of inspection isn’t so much the wires popping off as heating up. Any signs of discoloration of the crimp terminals or wires, or any fog or smoke and you should disconnect *everything* immediately and stop using it until or unless it is repaired and ALL heat damaged components replaced and THROWN AWAY.

A residual current circuit breaker. Jimbob82 [Public domain], via Wikimedia CommonsA residual current circuit breaker compares the current flowing in the live mains conductor with that flowing in the neutral. In a normal situation these currents will be identical as current flowing out one must flow back in the other. If they differ, it is likely that the missing current is due to a hazard or fault, and the circuit breaker is activated. So if the power shorts to earth through your body rather than the normal return path, it is detected and cut off. It is important to understand that a residual current circuit breaker will not protect you from circuits on the other side of an isolation transformer, however this is to provide some protection for the other circuits on your bench. You may well find that the wiring codes in your country mean you already have a residual current circuit breaker in place.

But don’t believe brand names are any better, especially if you buy them from eBay or Amazon! There is too much profit to be made remarking parts to trust any of these type parts from anyone but a major distributor like DIGIKEY or MOUSER Electronics.

The nostalgia for “classic” miniature consoles isn’t ending anytime soon, either: Sony just announced today it’s making its own PlayStation Classic console. The tiny PS1 will come with “20 genre-defining titles,” and it’s set to release this December for $99.99. Also coming this winter is the Sega Mega Drive collection on the Nintendo Switch, and the trailer for it was published today.

There’s a lot of FUD in the comments here about extension cords (which if you know what you’re doing, you have some 12AWG SO and call it a day, 10 if it’s really dang long) and in terms of current, if you screw up and overload a plug you have a handy-dandy circuit breaker there for you. If you want to say I can’t trust that, you have other issues. I wouldn’t want to try this in a house with K&T, which I didn’t know was still so prolifically installed until I moved to the Midwest.

Dude routinely welds wearing shorts and flip flops. He’s also known to weld quite a bit of galvanized steel, as he does in this video with the lifting ring. Not saying he should do any of this, but there it is.

Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.

First off, I would set the system up more like a safety-critical system. I would have an independent, segregated processor running the heated bed. I would have checks in the system processor and re-checks built into an independent circuit built from discrete analog/digital circuits on the system. I would use two, independent temperature sensors on the board, plus at least one thermal fuse, as well as one overload protection mechanism (most likely a fuse).

And you’d need to think about seperation (diodes to seperate the two paths?) if you wanted to read a local button press verses a node press, or would you be better off just doing that in software. Detecting a button press and checking to see if the node had recently issued one itself.