HVDC interties certainly simplifies some things (stability, voltage control, and frequency syncing & phasing is a non-issue), particularly in lines where their length approaches a quarter wavelength (which makes voltage control at the load end difficult). There are quite a few already: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_HVDC_projects and the list is growing rapidly.
You can also see the top of the mechanism for the tilt / swivel LCD panel, peeking out on either side of the electronic viewfinder. The viewfinder itself projects quite a bit from the rear of the camera, a decision that was apparently necessitated by the tight packaging of components in front, including the AF module, popup flash, hot shoe, and microphones.
Attack of the giant hand? That’s what we called these shots when we took them. Despite the disparity between the size of my hand and the camera body, the grip was still fairly comfortable.
Another potential issue of the translucent mirror design is that with an extra optical surface between the lens and the imager, flare could be increased, and image quality degraded, and indeed we’ve seen some evidence of this in predominantly dark shots containing bright point light sources, as described elsewhere in this review. There’s also another surface for dust to adhere to, and while this would be too far from the image sensor to appear as distinct specks, it could further contribute to issues with flare and reduced contrast. While manual sensor cleaning will now be a familiar process for photographers used to shooting with a digital SLR, cleaning the pellicle mirror is a total unknown. The Sony A33 provides a cleaning mode allowing the sensor to be accessed, and the pellicle mirror itself can be manually raised to facilitate this, but Sony’s documentation provides no advice on cleaning the pellicle mirror itself, simply noting that the surface of the mirror shouldn’t be touched.
Tilt level. The Sony A33 includes a dual-axis level gauge, which helps ensure level horizons and prevent converging verticals in photos. The level gauge can be shown on either the electronic viewfinder or the rear-panel LCD, but only alongside the most basic information overlay — you can’t combine the detailed display overlays with the level gauge. A clever way around it, though, is to set one viewer to the level gauge, and the other to a more informative display, since by default you can set the display modes independently. There’s no way for the user to recalibrate the gauge, if they find the factory default to be inaccurate. The gauge is displayed in a style reminiscent of an aircraft attitude indicator, but with a separation of the roll and pitch indicators. When the camera is perfectly level, the pitch indicators and markings at the end of the roll indicator are illuminated in green.
[It looks like I’m on meds with all my grammar and spelling errors in the post – and I am actually Pain meds and muscle relaxant for a evil frozen shoulder….]
A final benefit of the EVF is that it lets you keep the camera to your eye during video recording, something no other SLR currently offers, although some SLDs do.
#PreferLinux mentioned switching off at the mains socket. Do that, but still test; that saved me once when the switch was faulty. Yes, that socket was replaced, pronto!
Since GM was having troubles with said DOPES regarding the 2011 VOLT, they quickly redesigned the current and all future units to have an AWG #14 connector cord, while keeping the AWG #16 connector cord to the car – why? – so that the oversized connector cord would extract heat from any overheating defective receptacle.
Maybe they’re at the same kind of place Rubicon were during the capacitor plague, actually made by Rubicon caps were okay, exact visual copy fakes and Rulicons, Rubicows Rubycoms etc etc were not
And in my own experience, I have seen switch mode power supplies designed for 400 volts DC (280 volt AC), taking clearance for such into consideration throughout the whole design.
My first thought was that the terminals were over torqued rotating the blocks, stretching the pins, and tearing the pads.
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