How To Wire A New Garage For Electric-Car Charging: What You Need To Know | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

The first time I hooked up to HT it was a 32+ inch screen (about 27KV) and it launched me into the air and I landed 4 meters behind where I was sitting. The second time was a 27 inch (about 24KV) and there was a wall about two meters behind me and I was slammed into that so hard that I was bruised in many places.

I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…

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In plain English, what that means is that the thing AIN’T CERTIFIED FOR ANYTHING. It just means the device has met MINIMAL safety concerns, when operated under typical conditions. It doesn’t say anything about out-of-the-ordinary conditions.

In this case, multiply the number of times you charged the car by 8.9 kWh for a low estimate of electric power consumed. For a better estimate, you need to know what the battery charging losses are. It takes more than 8.9 kWh to charge an 8.9 kWh battery – some of the power gets lost to heat. I can’t find authoritative data, but posters on Tesla forums claiming to have measured this report losses between 10 and 20%. If you assume it’s 15%, then it’ll take 8.9 / (1 – .15) = 10.5 kWh to charge the Niro’s battery.

And use a power circuit with a differential circuit breaker so if you touch live wire it will disconnect.

Have to be ohnest I would never ever consider a SSR for such an application even if it was a genuine unit form a reputable supplier. this is a perfect example where a relay should be used, tried, tested and ought to fail somewhat gracefully if it came to it. Not snarking at the OP, but any situation I have used an SSR its been massively over-specced for the load im driving, i dont think I could sleep well at night with an SSR controlling tens of amps at hundreds of volts.

I think Brian’s point was that if the bond between the earth ground and the neutral return of the incoming premises power isn’t good enough, then the short to earth might *not* trip the breaker. Of course, it would likely start a fire instead (the resistance may not be zero, but it will be low enough to sink a great deal of power in most cases and a 15A breaker will tolerate a couple THOUSAND watts), but I think that if you can’t trust that the building is to code, then all bets are off.

Oh… As for power meter… OpenEVSE II – my own take on OpenEVSE – has an isolated voltmeter and an ammeter in it. There’s development firmware being worked on right now that keeps a running kW-hr log on the display. Very handy.

I design and we manufacture controllers for homebrewing beer and in 2015 we were bit hard by counterfeit FOTEK SSRs, and this was after many years of having no issues at all with the brand. Our problems started when switching from buying direct from a Chinese supplier to buying from a Amazon supplier and the mistake cost us $7,000 in one month in warranty returned products. The issue was rated product built with substandard parts – in other words 40 Amp SSRs were built with 20 Amp TRIACs!

I can’t remember the exact numbers, but before the change, UK mains voltage was acceptable between something like 210V and 270V, depending on grid load. EU mains had a similar range. All they did, was tighten up the range. So now it’s nominally 230V, with 240V being within acceptable range. Which is good because the voltage stayed exactly the same. They just trimmed the range at the top end to be within the EU standards.

Flake has said he won’t back any judicial nominees until he sees a floor vote on legislation that protects special counsel Robert Mueller and his investigation into Russian election interference.