How To Wire A New Garage For Electric-Car Charging: What You Need To Know | Circuit Breaker Parts

Always pay attention to the safety warnings, and never underestimate the stupidity of anyone, most importantly your self.

It’s not that simple according to National Electrical Code (NEC) NFPA 70 for several reasons. Here are some additional factors to be considered:

McConnell, however, has said he doesn’t see any threat of Trump firing Mueller, and he indicated Tuesday that he would “probably block” the bill from coming to the floor if Flake pushed it a second time. On the other hand, Majority Whip John Cornyn has previously signaled that there could be an openness to considering the legislation to keep things moving on judicial nominees, especially as the Senate seeks to wrap business up toward the end of the year.

That said, 12A @ 240V is only a little less than the most our Volt will use even on a proper charger, so it’s still a good thing.

Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)

1. Metal-oxide varistors (MOVs) are available in a variety of form factors and sizes for a broad range of applications. The radial leaded disc type is the most common version.

And because what you need is power and not current, and because of voltage drop in your wiring, the current is slightly more than twice. If you have a load of 1200 Watts, so 10 A in 120VAC and 5 A in 240 VAC. With wire around 8 ohms/km (roughly wire of 2.5mm² section or 14 AWG), you get a voltage drop of 8 Volts in one case, 4 Volts in the other. So 6.67% of your main voltage vs. 1.67% of your main voltage. Already 5% of efficiency loss in your system… But it’s even worst because in this case you don’t get 1200 Watts at your load, only 1120 Watts ((120-8) * 10) and 1180 Watts ((240-4) * 5) To get your 1200 Watts at your charge, you need 10.77 Amps and 5.08 Amps. So you get a overall efficiency of 92.8 % at 120 VAC (1200 / (10.77*120)) and 98.3 % at 240 VAC. (5.5% of efficiency difference).

Heating is a function of power loss, which varies by the square of the voltage drop and inversely with the resistance. Current is a fallout of the voltage drop across the resistance. While typically stated as I*I*R losses, getting that “I” to be a big number with a low input voltage means that R has to also be low, which decreases power. Requiring a low R for the heating element magnifies the power losses in the rest of the circuit, where heat isn’t desired.

The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other. Residential power in the US is single phase, sometimes called split phase because they’re both 120V relative to the center tapped neutral.

i built the rig that day. I put an ammeter with max hold on a circuit, plugged the circuit into a known 20 amp connection, and put a load on the circuit that simulated the instrument. Turn it on, 22 amps max hold, 13 amps nominal.

China needs to sort it’s shit out. Eventually, they might, then that’ll be OK. They may evolve the same way the West did til their business standards are reputable. Of course, that all happened to the West around the 19th and 20th Centuries. Since then, in the West, corruption has increased, and political bodies are bought and paid for by gigantic mega-corps, seeking monopolism and every other bent tactic they can try, for an eternally increasing share price.

Yes, unfortunately, in my house the car isn’t in the basement. I work cheaper than most electricians, but nowadays they hardly do anything for $300. My Neighbor across the street paid for a 1/3 hp 110 volt outlet for his pool mandated by the town to be installed by a licensed electrician in this town, and it cost him $1400 for a simple direct buried UF 14-2 cable and a faceless ground fault on a dedicated 15 ampere circuit. That was more than the pool and filter. It would have been $1500 but he saved $100 by digging the trench himself..