Retired engineer, 71 years young. Computer builder and programmer. Linguist specialising in language acquisition and computational linguistics. Interested…
People that build or use 3D printers aren’t necessarily qualified electricians or know how to handle high voltage safely. That’s what I mean for ” Can’t let Darwin wipe them out when they happens to the target market… ”
Most PSUs are not designed to receive DC even if you calculate it correctly. The 4 rectifier diodes on the primary side are evenly used with AC but with DC only two get hot, the other two do nothing. It can and will most likely work but you may decrease the lifespan of the PSU.
Not sure where did you get “…A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load…”. BT137 has the following listed: On State voltage (Vt) @It=10A is 1.3V, max 1.65, so the worst case is 16.5W, more realistic 13W. Not to laugh at, but still not close to 20W
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Agreed…. I used to have a small plastic box in our workshop. It had two copper contacts on opposite surfaces, and a 9V battery, relay and tilt switch inside, and a Caution High Voltage sticker on it,
Seriously, it looks rather sparse inside, does it not? Perhaps some of you more electrically inclined/engineering types can chime in and let us know if $750 seems reasonable now that we know what’s inside?
This is great info. In the next instalments I would love to see advice in dealing with a mains power supply and possibly a power line carrier modem on the same board or enclosure as low voltage components.
The contacts therefore return to their normally closed position by spring power as the motor coasts to a stop.
There is no mention of what powers the module here, and I suspect it is a regular 5V, isolated SMPS. @RobHeffo suggests transformerless power supply, but that is not a good idea, for the current drawn by the ESP the capacitor will be too big. There are alternatives, like this guy, LNK306 : http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf . It is not isolated, but the thing is probably the best cost option for such a device.
I neither would recommend the mains power approach (230V in Europe), the power of 120W is very well to be handled with 24V, even 36V is necessary. This 3D printers are in many cases still some kind of “hacker toy”, often are modifications or experiments done.
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