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⢠Circuit conditions such as the peak voltage and current during the surge event ⢠The MOV continuous operating voltage (should be at 20% above maximum system voltage under normal conditions) ⢠The number of surges the MOV must survive ⢠Acceptable let-through voltage for the protected circuit ⢠Any safety standards with which the circuit must comply
I use a variety of a/c and dc fostek ssrs. I have yet to have a problem, but i use them in circuits where 50% of their rated current is the absolute maximum they will ever see.
Level-2 isn’t required for charging at home, but it sure makes life a lot easier. I wouldn’t use or recommend using a standard outlet for Level-1 charging unless it’s a dedicated circuit with it’s own breaker. With the larger battery packs these days Level-2 charging is becoming more popular if not necessary. Consult your electrician, but I personally think pulling wiring that will handle less than 50 amps is a waste of time. You can use a smaller circuit breaker, but the wiring needs to be robust. Most modern homes built in the last 10 years or so should have a 200 amp panel anyway, so you aren’t going to notice an EV plugged in. Again, consult a qualified, licensed electrician. Also, before you let your ‘handy’ brother-in-law install your charging station, be aware if there is a fire from improper installation, your home owner’s insurance will most likely NOT pay for the event.
It’s OK, you can admit it — from the time you first saw those huge electromagnetic cranes in scrap yards you’ve wanted to have one. While it may not fling around a car, parts donated from scrapped microwaves can let you build your own electromagnetic lifting device and make that dream finally come true.
Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.
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I’ve built a 24 V heated bed for my DIY (as I call it) Mendel 90 XXL printer (400 x 400 mm print area). I use a 24 V 400 W LED power source and – since I already had a 12 V RAMPS – put a 24->12 V DC-DC converter in line with the RAMPS and driving a 24 V heating mat (for cars) via a DC solid state relay. As long as it’s not too cold in the room I get up to 60°C which is helpful for PLA but of course not sufficient for ABS (but I don’t want to breathe these ABS fumes anyway)… I’d rather use a thick cable (in combination with an energy chain) than playing with mains voltage.
A path is the key. To be thrown across a room and to be banged up, ie bashing into a wall, must have been a low current high voltage event that made a path!
I’m not claiming this is a new phenomenon (I’ve done some stupid things with electricity myself, before the www was even invented) but we know that the media isn’t always rational about these matters.
And for the record, If I’m able to, I will breastfeed my children, because nutritional value, probiotics, and antibodies.
one of my least favorite shocks is a phone ringing. I was fixing a socket one night about 11p and thought ‘no one will call this late’ and didnt bother to disconnect it. got a nice zap from that and the ringing has a nice pulse to it that really gets your jumping.
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