A hobbyist should not screw with a Triac on house wiring if it will be “permanently” installed in a junction box. Make an adapter that plugs into a socket on the outside so that it is clear it is not a normal outlet. If you have to homebrew something like this use a good relay or contactor with a UR approval. AND read the spec on it thoroughly.
If you have a 3D-capable Sony television to view them on, capturing 3D images can definitely be entertaining. That’s about where I’d leave it, though: "Entertaining" vs "compelling." While you do get a reasonable 3D effect in shots captured this way, I found the quality of the 3D experience a little disappointing. Don’t expect Avatar-level 3D, this strikes me as more of a gee-whiz sort of feature: In my experience, the 3D effect is a bit limited, and foreground objects tend to break up visually. I suspect this has to do with the fact that the perspective is changing throughout the sweep, so things like effective intraocular distance and viewing angle aren’t perfectly consistent throughout the image. Whatever the cause, it’s a fun effect, but not something that would be a decisive factor for me in choosing a camera, whereas ordinary 2D sweep panorama is something that I’ve used often. (Personally, I suspect this feature has a lot less to do with selling cameras than it does with selling TVs: I wouldn’t buy a camera for the feature, but all else being equal, if I owned a Sony camera that had the feature, I’d be more inclined to purchase a Sony television that supported it.)
No need, really. You just need a few mates with smartphones – just enable the wifi hotspot on each of them, place them roughly in a circle and put your coffee in the center. Make sure to dismantle the circle before you reach in for your cup though if you don’t want to get fried too – safety first!
If your electrical panel can’t handle a Level 2 EVSE then chances are it needs replacement anyway. Putting in my ClipperCreek was the push I needed to finally do what I should have done 20 years ago which was to replace my 1960s panel with a modern one. The new panel is much safer than the old one and having a permanent LVSE is increadably convenient. You have a $50-$60K car, it makes no sense not to spend $1K on an EVSE, you paid more than that for the paint on your Model 3. I spent $40K for my Volt, before Fed and State rebates, so another 1K to buy and install a CC was nothing and likewise the $2800 I spent on the new 200A panel isn’t a lot when compared to the price of a Chevy let alone the price of a Tesla.
He welded the base of the magnets to the plate that is hold directly to the crane with a hook. Look again.
When finished “fixing” things, you want to make sure, your device is still safe to the user. For this you need these testers.
We drive about 30k miles/year, lots of long trips. After a trip, we usually pull in with 25-50 miles of range remaining. No problem – charging to the normal 80% is < 7 hours.
What about putting a uC in SSRs, so you can ask the think if it’s an original part or not. Propper encryption needs to be implemented of course.
The rest of the circuit would be built on the backside, with judicious use of surface mount electronics rated for miltemp operation (to 125C). Standard connectors from Samtec or Molex can handle the current drive easily, with no problems from the heat. Add an acrylic conformal coat on the backside, or perhaps potting the electronics, and you can make the entire module one single brick module.
We teach our employees never to trust anyone concerning lock-out tag-out. Everyone has their own personal lock, and most power sources can accommodate multiple locks. Fortunately you just enjoyed an unusual sensation,
It can take 15 to 20 minutes for your air conditioner to get up and running after it’s tripped a circuit breaker or the power is turned off. Be patient and wait it out before trying something else.
Your friend reminds me of a domestic main voltage electrician that would test with the back of his hand. He’s dead now.
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