In Japan, People Get Charged Up About Amping Down | Circuit Breaker Parts

Oh, and I have fixed about 15,000 of the old CRT TV’s so while my mistakes can’t ever be called good, they’re not without precedent.

We did go for an L2 charger in our case because we have 2 BEVs and charging them on 1 20 amp L1 circuit wouldn’t cut it. Generally my wife uses the L2 charger for her Leaf while I L1 charge the model 3 and only borrow her L2 connection if I have been too lazy to plug into L1 for a few days. But, if we just had the model 3 L1 alone would be fine. As for the “plugging an L1 charger into a corroded outlet safety risk” some other repliers mention. Well duh. If I plug an L2 charger into a corroded 14-30 or 14:50 outlet there is even more risk. If the 120V outlet is in poor shape $5 in parts at Home Depot can fix that. Any sustained draw electrical equipment can be a hazard if plugged into insufficient infrastructure.

Also power the unit directly from the mains ( http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/appnotes/00954a.pdf ) with the ability to power the unit directly with DC when (re)programming the ESP8266

2. At the 1.8V voltage drop Mattias Wandel mentioned in the video, his SSR was dissipating about 40 Watts of energy and the metal bast plate he mounted the SSR to was not sufficient for dissipating 40 Watts of heat energy.

Remembers me of an incident when my mother asked me to fix the extension cord for the electric lawn mower – “please check the cable, the garden worker complained the mower does not work”. I opened the socket type end of the cable, saw a dislodged contact spring and wanted to reseat it. Then I had to feel the other end was still connected to 230VAC mains. It just did not think of thisbefore… But luckily it just stung a little. I pulled the plug and continued my work.

Thanks for the pointer, it looks promising! The RF-controlled remote switch appliances that can be found for a few dollars are self-contained, I would think that a Wifi-based one could also be? Having a separate wire coming out of the box seems like an extra hazard to me. If you keep the thing self-contained with only mains-in/mains-out, I would think it is safer in the end, and removes the internal complexity of optocouplers.

Let us never forget this Darwinian hero. http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xfyyii_man-electrocuted-on-the-train-india_news

The Sony Alpha A33 lacks one feature found in the A55V (the only version of the A55 that’s sold in the US market) — a built-in GPS receiver. It’s still possible to geotag images and movies from the A33, but doing so will rely on an external GPS logging device and PC software that can backtrack to calculate the location at which images and movies were shot — not nearly as seamless a solution as the A55V’s ability to geotag images and movies straight out of the box.

I can only think of a single instance in the last six months where the HPWC higher charge rate would have made a difference for us, and even then it would have simply made leaving for a long trip slightly more comfortable.

For while it inevitably doesn’t turn back the clock and serve up the giggle-a-minute thrills of hatches of yesteryear, unencumbered by safety or emissions regulations as they were, the Corolla is a genuinely enjoyable car to drive, gripping the road and controlling its body movements very well, and giving the driver the feedback to know what the front wheels are doing . It is both reassuring and genuinely engaging.

I’d like to say that if a circuit breaker is X-degrees over ambient, it’s a problem… but there’s just no hard and fast rule for this. I can’t say this.

It’s neither a sports car nor a hot hatch — it’s just a tall hatchback masquerading as a crossover. It handles a bit better than most commuter appliances, due to the 258 pound battery mounted low in the chassis. Imagine strapping me, Keanu-under-the-bus-in-Speed style, to the undercarriage of a car. That would let the car hug the road a bit more (and seriously wound your favorite bearded auto writer, so let’s keep this hypothetical).