Meanwhile in my house (uk) we have a street lamp time switch with a single pole switch that looks like it was designed to handle 30A. It is beautifully engineered from brass that increases the on period as the days get shorter, I felt bad hacking it so that it would turn on my water heater for an hour twice a day, a job it has been doing for 17 years now without incident. Electromechanical is by far the best way for high current loads at any voltage as fatcas I’m concerned.
Yes you can use those high voltage safely, BUT your typical DIY people don’t even bother to read or understand datasheets. These people need the proper training, but aren’t likely to be bother to go beyond the typical monkey see monkey do watching youtube and think they know it all. I have seen enough of bad layouts of the average projects that doesn’t even understand that the creepage space between the primary and secondary side of an optoisolator aren’t meant to be for routing!
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We first saw this feature in Sony’s DSC-TX1 and DSC-WX1 in mid-2009. Since then, it’s been mimicked by other manufacturers, but none seem to do it as well as Sony. In Handheld Twilight mode, the camera captures up to 6 shots in rapid succession, micro-aligns them with each other, and then adds them all together. The net result is that you can hand-hold ridiculously long exposures and still get sharp results, with very low image noise to boot. Combine this with Sony’s SteadyShot image stabilization and sharp handheld photos at half-second exposure times are feasible.
That said, why not use 12v halogens (or even mains voltage halogens) to provide the heat? They are ~99% efficient at that, cheap, plentiful, universally available…
Electricity can and will kill you. dead. it doesn’t care if it’s dumping into you from an AC or DC source or at what frequency. A little tickle to one person may be the correct amount at the right time to drop another who has a heart defect they didn’t and will never know they had. “Freezing on circuit” and all the other bullshit people wax on about is meaningless when you are dead. And electricity will grab you and tear out your soul before you have a chance to fucking realize you are dead. If you honestly don’t know what you are doing, then shut the fuck up and stay the hell back. A dead “know it all” knows nothing. Turn off your fucking ego because it’s going to get you killed. Period. Use common sense to keep yourself alive, if you have none, stay the fuck away from electricity.
continuing akismetuser212339447″ Using a mechanical relay for your thermal control _may_ make you crazy with the clicking. If you think you can take the madness, keep an eye on the make/break current rating, and the lifetime switching at the design current. Switching current and voltage is often far less than carrying current, and electrical contact life is short compared to mechanical life (Switching at zero crossing will help). Also note that failure mode of relays is possibly contacts fused closed – design with safety in mind, and have some sort of feedback. Something like a thermal cutoff fuse?
In air conditioning, we are given a gift by equipment manufacturers on the equipment data tags: the minimum circuit ampacity (MCA) and MOCP or max fuse/max circuit breaker rating.
A properly wired, properly functioning dimmer switch can get hot to the touch. I’ve found that a 65-degree temperature rise is normal for a maxed-out dimmer. If the ambient temperature is 71 degrees and a dimmer switch is at 136 degrees, I’d be concerned, but I wouldn’t report the temperature as a problem. I would, however, take an extra minute or two to figure out how many watts the dimmer is rated for. I’d then make sure there wasn’t too much being controlled by the dimmer.
If you do not know the exact value of each cost, you could enter an estimated percentage based on the cost of goods.
Most people posting seem to have three stories, I only have two. Hard to believe I learn faster than you all; I must have just forgotten the other times.
I know some policies that clearly state work needs to be performed by “duly licensed” personnel (ie. you better be a licensed electrician or plumber). That’s one of the reasons I did not want to install my own automated transfer switch. Insurance company would possibly deny coverage in event of a mishap.
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