Is my appliance compatible with the Amazon Smart Plug? | Lrd12 Overload Relay

well, originally they were 2 kW transformers (or at least from microwaves that are rated to 2-2.5 kW), and on secondary is wounder stranded thick wire (diametar around 7-8mm)… enought power to melt nails with 3-4 mm diametar…

For a TRIAC I bend the middle pin forward 0.1″ – 0.2″, this is often done commercially and you can even buy them pre-bent.

I actually also just added remote control to my pool, using a Sonoff 4CH pro. In my case, I have 3 devices I want to control. The pool pump itself, a water feature close to the pool, and the pool lighting. I also incorporated a flow rate sensor into the pump to make sure that the pump was not working too hard (as can happen when there is too much debris in the pool weir basket!). To drive the flow rate sensor, I tapped into the 5V supply before the 3.3V regulator, as the sensor was specced to run on 5V-24V, or thereabouts. I also inserted a level converter in between the flow rate signal and the Sonoff, even though it should be OK with 5V. I didn’t feel like taking chances.

• Lightning: In fact, transients induced by lightning are not the result of a direct strike. A lightning strike creates a magnetic field that can induce large magnitude transients in nearby electrical cables. A cloud-to-cloud strike can affect both overhead and buried cables. The outcome also is unpredictable—a strike that occurs a mile away can generate 70 V in electrical cables, and another can generate 10 kV from 160 yards away. • Inductive-load switching: Generators, motors, relays, and transformers represent typical sources of inductive transients. Switching inductive loads on or off can generate high-energy transients that intensify in magnitude with increasingly heavy loads. When the inductive load is switched off, the collapsing magnetic field converts into electrical energy, which takes the form of a double exponential transient. Depending on the source, these transients can be as large as hundreds of volts and hundreds of amperes, with durations of 400 ms. Due to varying load sizes, there will be variance in wave shape, duration, peak current, and peak voltage of the transients. Once these variables are approximated, circuit designers will be able to select a suitable suppressor type. • Electrostatic discharge (ESD): This energy is the result of an imbalance of positive and negative charges between objects. It’s characterized by very fast rise times and very high peak voltages and currents.

If you read carefully the related articles you will find that this module is mainly designed to switch lights aka lighbulbs. A 8A Triac is more than suitable to switch any standard household lamp. Please check the bigger one in your house. How big it is? 100W? 200W? 300W? Average value in probably in 99% of the cases between 40 to 100W. Anybody can to the math.

Yup. Isolation is important as other commenters have noted. I’d compare electric heating pad design too, and probably require a door interlock to cut power to the bed when the door is open (enclosed only). A simpler way may be to simply put a transformer or “dirty” switcher under the bed and not put the higher voltage into the build plate in the first place. Use either a digital on/off for the switcher or a ZVS SSR for the transformer high side control. Would a 1/100 or 1/120 of a second minimum duty cycle and lsb affect the temperature that much, given the thermal mass of the system?

The likely hazards identified, what are you about to do with it? Are you just opening it for curiosity’s sake, are you going to work on the high voltage circuit to fix it, or is it surplus that you’re scavenging for parts? If you’re just curious or simply scavenging parts, you may not have to increase the risk by applying power in the first place, so what other risks might remain?

You completely missed the point. The safety regulatory doesn’t change regardless of the *perception* or the *knowledge* of the person using it. If you are selling a product or publishing a design, you may ended up being liable for the end users. Even if you are the person that design and build your own stuff, plugging in something not certified pretty much voids your home insurance if it happens to be the cause of a fire etc. On the other hand if you are playing with ELV from UL etc approved/certified supplies, you are covered.

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The camera can’t always perfectly compensate for how you move the camera during the panorama, nor for extreme perspective shifts, so you’ll sometimes see "stitch errors" in the assembled shots. The slight "stuttering" above left in a shot from the Sony A55 is typical of the mild errors that sometimes occur: Pretty unobtrusive, unless you really zoom in to pixel-peep. More dramatic errors like the crop from an A560 panorama seen above right were fairly rare in my experience. This is a great feature for dramatic vacation snapshots, but if you’re making panoramas professionally, you’ll still want to build them manually from separate shots.

Try it- measure the voltage between the neutral and earth ground pin on a North American outlet. If the voltage is near zero, then you have a bonded ground system. If you see 1V or more, then you either do not have a bonded ground, or you have poor / undersized / or very long wire runs between the breaker box and the point you’re measuring.

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