Kojima shows off a new Death Stranding trailer at E3 | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Dude routinely welds wearing shorts and flip flops. He’s also known to weld quite a bit of galvanized steel, as he does in this video with the lifting ring. Not saying he should do any of this, but there it is.

Many thermostats are battery-operated, and once they power down so will your air conditioner or heater. Check that your thermostat is fully operational and the connections to the wall are good.

Before the code prohibited it, it was common practice to share neutrals between circuits. It was customary to pull three hot conductors – fed from three different phases on a three-phase system – a neutral and a ground into a single conduit in commercial facilities. The assumption was that the neutral carried only the unbalance between the three phases, and that would never exceed the highest current in a phase conductor. Now, you can’t do that anymore, unless you use a three-pole circuit breaker, handle ties, or a three pole disconnect switch.

This makes no sense when you’re designing a heater. The higher the current, the hotter the wire will be. That’s why power companies transmit power at high voltage in the first place: they want to minimize heating. 120 watts flowing through a wire does NOT mean that 120 watts of heat are dissipated in it. You’ll get a much more efficient heater at lower voltages and higher currents.

In their best days (unfortunately behind them), they have merely LISTED an appliance. (Listing is currently their TOUGHEST CRITERION).

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They make “plate” heaters that are metal plate looking thing with a couple of stud terminals sticking out of them as well.

I don’t think we would save that much money by swapping the heater to a mains powered. You would need something that is better insulated, and made of other materials. I highly doubt it would be possible to make a PCB with high enough resistance to work at 230V. That needs to be better insulated, more material, higher cost. Then you need to change the driver from a simple MOSFET to something isolated. Based on ebay prices of the kinds of supplies used, i would say there is a $10 saved by using a smaller power one. This is easy to see disappearing in better insulation and more complex driver.

That wouldn’t make things any safer, per se. It would give you an additional diagnostic datapoint as to which of the two 120V inputs has the reversal. But the primary symptom of a hot-neutral reversal is the angry buzz from the third relay combined with the third light not coming on.

Even if you have 20A circuit breakers, 15A is going to likely be the circuit limit because most heavy-duty extension cords you can get are only rated for 15A – which, again, means charging at 12A.

Although a mains powered heated bed sounds scary for a hobbyist-built 3D printer, there are a number of positives to the design. It would heat up faster, thin down a few parts, and significantly reduce the overall cost of the printer by not requiring another 100 Watts delivered from a 12V power supply. It’s a great idea if it doesn’t burn down the house. Anyone want to help?

And you’d need to think about seperation (diodes to seperate the two paths?) if you wanted to read a local button press verses a node press, or would you be better off just doing that in software. Detecting a button press and checking to see if the node had recently issued one itself.